UNGARO’S NEW DIVA

Byline: Amy Barone

MILAN — Designer Emanuel Ungaro chose fashion week in Paris to present his first fragrance in four years, Fleur de Diva. A fresh, aquatic women’s scent targeted to a young clientele, it represents a lighter version of the designer’s Diva fragrance.
The audience at Ungaro’s ready-to-wear show Sunday will be the first to check out the new scent. Each will receive a 15-ml. bottle of the eau de toilette, and once the collection has been presented, the model seen in Fleur de Diva’s print ads is expected to stroll down the catwalk while images from the campaign are projected and flower petals are strewn about. The official unveiling of the scent will follow at a luncheon.
In a highly exclusive distribution strategy, Fleur de Diva will roll out to Italy and France on Nov. 20. Plans are still being finalized for France, but the scent will arrive in 800 Italian perfumeries by the end of December. Launches in the rest of Europe, the U.S. and Asia are scheduled for the first quarter of 1998.
The eau de toilette will also be sold in Ungaro’s 16 freestanding boutiques around the world, including a Palm Beach boutique scheduled to open in early 1998.
Industry sources estimate that Fleur de Diva will likely generate $2.9 million (5 billion lire) at current exchange rates in first-year sales.
The fragrance, created by Firmenich, was inspired by the flower-filled fields of Ungaro’s native Aix-en-Provence. He chose rose for the heart of the scent whose top and middle notes mix wisteria, water hyacinth, waterlily, lily of the valley, black currant flowers, and freesia. Earthy dry-down notes include sandalwood and musk.
The fragrance’s bottle mimics the elegant form for the original scent with folds etched into the bottle, draping together in the front like a woman’s stole. It is topped with a fan-shaped stopper.
The range consists of spray and splash versions in 50-ml. and 100-ml. sizes. Retail prices are $42 (72,000 lire) for the 50-ml. spray and $64.14 (110,000) for the 100-ml. version.
A bath and body line is under development and slated for a summer 1998 debut.
Fleur de Diva marks the first project under the direction of Ungaro Parfums’ owners Bulgari and Ferragamo.
The Ferragamo Group of Florence acquired Emanuel Ungaro SA in July 1996, followed shortly by the acquisition of the Paris-based designer’s fragrance trademark from Chanel.
In March 1997 the Bulgari Group of Rome and Ferragamo announced an agreement to form two companies, Ungaro Parfums and Ferragamo Parfums. The two groups own equal shares in the companies, which will benefit from Bulgari’s finely honed distribution network, including Chanel’s Fragrances Exclusive subsidiary in the U.S. and newly appointed distributorships in France and the U.K.
The original Diva scent was launched in 1982 and will remain an integral part of the Ungaro fragrance business, along with men’s scent Ungaro Pour l’Homme III that was launched in 1993. Bulgari Group chief executive officer Franceso Trapani said, in an earlier interview, that the four other scents in the Ungaro stable — women’s fragrances Senso and Ungaro and men’s scents Pour l’Homme I and Pour l’Homme II — will be phased out.
A global advertising campaign created by Saatchi & Saatchi Italy targets the print medium exclusively and will break in leading women’s magazines in single- and double-page versions.
Shot by Italian fashion photographer Paolo Roversi, the sensual scene depicts a “flower-woman” dressed in a revealing, colorful metallic dress with a swarm of bees playfully buzzing around her. The slogan, “Tu es une fleur,” translated as “You are a flower,” is written in the designer’s script.

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