Byline: Elizabeth Gladfelter
Coil Knitwear Bows
Coil Knitwear, a Los Angeles company, has launched its first knitwear collection this fall, a line of hand-loomed sweaters that are intended to be classic and forward, but not trendy.
The design of the sweaters is centered around the garment’s construction, with attention to stitch, proportion and color.
“When I say construction, I don’t mean a sweater with a boxy cut and a couple of ribbons sewn on,” said Maggie Lobl, owner and designer. “I feel my sweaters exhibit a more ‘architectural’ attitude in the design, and that subtle details are more important than loud statements.”
The company uses natural fibers sourced from Europe, as well as blends of rayon, nylon and silk. For spring, the company will use more cotton, linen and silk blends. Trims are also natural, consisting of horn, glass and coroso-nut buttons.
First year wholesale volume is projected at $100,000, according to Lobl. For fall, wholesale prices range from $80 to $220. For spring, styles are less complicated and constructed, and the fibers are lighter in weight, so price points fall a little lower — $70 to $180.
“People are willing to spend more in the fall, which is necessary for a denser, more constructed sweater,” said Lobl.
California retailers that carry the line include Nordstrom, Costa Mesa; Dish, Berkeley; Salon de The, San Francisco; Mabel’s, Solano Beach, and Three Bags Full, Santa Monica. It is also carried in Saks Jandel, Chevy Chase, Md.; Gilda’s, Newton Center, Mass., and Yvonne of Camp Hill, Lemoyne, Pa.
Jamie Kreitman’s Deal
Jamie Kreitman, a knitwear company that did $1.5 million in wholesale volume in 1996, has been signed by Neiman Marcus to produce an exclusive of its “butterfly jacket” that wholesales for $166.
The mercerized cotton, rayon, chenille and polyester/viscose jacket is speckled with embroidered butterfly closures and appliques. The sweater is available in five Neiman stores.
Kreitman’s line, which is shown at 488 Seventh Avenue in New York, also includes heart-patterned zip sweaters, short plaid sweater jackets and floating heart-patterned tunics in mercerized cotton, rayon chenille, polyester/viscose and tweed. The collection wholesales between $100 and $250.
Projected wholesale volume for 1997 is $2 million. The company plans to introduce a men’s wear line in fall ’98.
N. Peal Stretches Out
N. Peal, a London cashmere company, has expanded and moved its New York store to 5 West 56th Street. The store is 1,400 square feet.
The company had operated a 1,000-square-foot store at 118 East 57th Street for 10 years. It changed locations because of increasing sales and a marked change in the product’s image from only classics to more fashion-forward items, according to Mark Campbell, vice president and general manager.
N. Peal created a warmer, more contemporary environment for the new space, with a neutral and subtle interior. The bleached walnut floors and natural-toned carpets lend a contemporary edge to the surroundings for the new merchandise.
“The retail division for all N. Peal stores has moved from providing essential classics in Scottish cashmere to complete wardrobe fashion collections in both 100 percent cashmere and blends of cashmere and silk, or cashmere and cotton,” said Campbell.
Silhouettes include twinsets, cardigans, wraps, V-necks, jackets with a tie sash, cowlnecks and turtlenecks. Sweaters are available in 25 colors.
The company’s other U.S. store is in San Francisco.
Internationally, the company anticipates a combined wholesale and retail volume of $10 million for 1997.