MULE OVER: The mule is undoubtedly the freshest shoe of the season, and sexy slipons turned up in a variety of incarnations at almost every show. For Christian Dior, John Galliano preferred towering satin in delicate pastels, while Stella McCartney at Chloe added metallic brights to her palette. In keeping with his western theme at Givenchy, Alexander McQueen did them in lizard with metal toe tips, but also showed black patent. Cerruti, too, turned out lizard versions — both flat and with a Sabrina heel — while Martine Sitbon’s pancake flats came in fuchsia, turquoise, black and ivory.
CHOKE HOLD: Mile-high beaded chokers are once again the accessory of choice for spring. Beaded bib versions turned up at Dior, Chloe and Valentino in everything from semiprecious and colored stones to metal and rhinestones. At Givenchy, there were tooled leather collars, while at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld showed his in liquid silver mesh, pearl-tipped glass beads, as well as in rhinestones and pearls, and Christian Lacroix had extra-large asymmetric diamante bibs. When necklaces weren’t in evidence, the neck was often wrapped with scarves, as at Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto and Valentino.
FRAMED: After seasons of sharp-edged clutches or shapeless pouches and shoulder bags, the frame bag is making its way back into the limelight. What’s new this season is a playful mix of structure and softness. Metal-top handle bags turned up at Sonia Rykiel, Chloe and Dior in softer shapes and ultraluxe feminine fabrics such as brocade, printed silk, lace-trimmed satin, even crocheted knit and marabou. There’s a decidedly delicate feel to most of these bags, though a few stronger A-line shapes turned up at Galliano and Chanel. And then there were the glitter box bags at Celine, with sparkling belts to match.