NEW YORK — It’s not all showgirls, showmanship and fleeting hysteria. With the New York collections about to start, the major designers here are taking a cool approach to spring. Ralph Lauren gets a jump on the bare market, with high contrast played for maximum effect — a delicate beaded, embroidered silk camisole and jaunty linen pants. “It’s a refined sexiness,” Lauren says. “It’s always important that there’s a sense of elegance.”

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