INSIDE THE NUMBERS

Byline: Soren Larson

On hand at The Boulders to provide a statistical backdrop were representatives from NPD BeautyTrends, an informational service that tracks sales of makeup, skin care and fragrance in prestige outlets.
NPD’s Karyn Schoenbart and Timra Carlson developed their presentation by formulating a number of fact-or-fiction statements.
For instance, the pair asked the attendees if the following statement is fact or fiction: The prestige beauty industry’s sales are flat so far in 1997.
The answer: fiction. According to NPD’s data, the department store market was up 10 percent in terms of dollar sales from January through June. Unit sales were up 8 percent.
Among the other revelations:
Together, the Estee Lauder Cos., Unilever’s Personal Products Group and Cosmair account for 58 percent of department store fragrances sales. The same trio generates 84 percent of skin care sales, while Lauder, Unilever and Chanel take up 83 percent of makeup sales.
Of the top 15 fragrance brands in 1996, nine experienced sales drops in the first half of 1997 (CK Be, Tommy Girl and Cool Water Woman were not included in the top 15 due to their later launch dates).
Sales at the fragrance bar were up 7 percent in the first six months, as compared to 4 percent gains by cosmetics counter fragrance brands like Lauder, Lancome and Elizabeth Arden.
The top 10 women’s fragrances account for 31 percent of the overall women’s market, while the top 10 men’s scents generate 53 percent of the men’s business.
Father’s Day may be more important to the men’s fragrance industry than Mother’s Day is to the women’s category. June sales represent 10 percent of the men’s total for the year, while May accounts for only 8 percent of the women’s business.
New launches accounted for 5.1 percent of fragrance sales in January through June 1996, but only 2.4 percent of sales in the first half this year.
The most successful scent from the lengthy launch list of 1993 is Polo Sport, which had a volume of $44 million last year.
Sun care rang up about $65 million in department stores last year; self-tanners had about the same volume as Chanel No. 5.

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