Military looks and the Seventies starred on opening day.

COSTUME NATIONAL: This is a hot line, and this time, designer Ennio Capasa served up a collection that was disco-meets-military. He reworked favorite shapes, including long tailored jackets over fluid pants, but the highlight was after-dark looks, with Lurex metallic pants and striking silk charmeuse blouses, tied at the waist.

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE: Lemaire has been in business for six years, and his appealing, wearable sportswear has plenty of range. For fall, there’s a tinge of Seventies thrift-store chic in UltraSuede trenches, glen plaid pantsuits and patterned knits.

ISABEL MARANT: Chunky knits and pinstripes that cross an ethnic flavor with a small dose of deconstruction. Marant sells to Barneys New York and Bergdorf goodman.

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