MODERATE: BEYOND BASICS STROKES
Byline: Anne D’Innocenzio
NEW YORK — With consumers snubbing basic fashions these days, moderate vendors are scrambling to update their looks with such styles as zipped-up sweaters, cropped cardigans and embroidered denim pants.
“The stores want newness,” said Steven Cohen, sales manager of Miami-based Peter Popovitch Inc., which unveiled Popovitch & Co., an updated moderate line with more textured fabrics than its traditional counterpart, for spring. “The traditional market has been tough, and so retailers want the moderate departments to look more contemporary.”
The company is continuing with its traditional Peter Popovitch line, which offers clothes in polyester and cotton blends as well as washable rayons. For late summer and early fall, Popovitch & Co. will offer bright corals, olive greens and beiges in updated silhouettes, like skorts and slim-leg pants.
Going after the misses’ customer is Bugle Boy Inc., which renamed its misses’ label Bugle Boy for Her for spring. Officials have ambitious plans for the women’s wear category, which currently accounts for about 10 percent of overall sales and is expected to reach 25 percent within the next few years.
“We changed the name because we wanted to show a real commitment to the misses’ market,” said Joan Duncan, senior designer for the women’s line. “With casual Fridays taking off, we think we have a real niche.”
Bugle Boy also markets men’s and young men’s fashions. At WWD/MAGIC, Bugle Boy for Her will pitch its early fall and summer lines, which include Polarfleece jackets, denim skirts and jeans, slim-leg twill pants and printed piquA polo shirts.
Bugle Boy will also show its new line called Gold Crest, which is denim-inspired and is more sophisticated than Bugle Boy for Her. Gold Crest will hit stores for May 30 deliveries and includes cotton thermal twinsets and nylon jackets. It will spotlight a dark denim finish, which is the new trend in denim, according to Duncan. Key looks include skorts and embroidered denim shirts and jeans.
“It’s goodby to old faded grunge,” she said. “The dark finish is giving customers a reason for buying a pair of jeans.”
The average wholesale price for Bugle Boy for Her is $11, while Gold Crest is about 5 percent higher.
Sportique, whose parent company is New York-based India Cottage Emporium, is going after career looks. The label had been more about soft two-piece dressing in challis.
“We are trying to get away from the traditional prints and do more career fashion, like miniskirts and rayon blouses mixed with wool crepe jackets,” said Bobby Chani, sales manager of Sportique.
Career is expected to account for about 10 to 15 percent of the line for early fall, and the category is expected to grow to 50 percent in two years, according to Chani.
House of Gabrielle , a T-shirt maker, is moving away from basics and offering T-shirts that have “cute sayings,” according to Linda Gabler, president, like “Kids think I’m a bank,” and “My wife thinks she married a bank.”
THE EXHIBITORS
A-1 Fashions Inc.
Accessory Network
Artesania Inc.
Bali Emerald
Blondie & Me
Bugle Boy Missy
Brett Sales Inc.
C’Mon Sportswear Ltd.
Calamity Jeans
Camp David
China Connection Inc.
Confetti
Cricket Lane
Decosport/Shana Knitwear
Denali/Monterey
Dimanche Inc.
Direct Action/Ssang Yong
Dorman Fashion Inc.
Drew Pearson Mkt. Inc.
Fantazia/Fully Fashion
Gardy Sportswear Inc.
Gepetto Inc.
Heads Up/Fabric Junction Inc.
Heller Financial Inc.
House of Gabrielle
I. Appel Corporation
International Clothing
Jacques Moret
Jantzen Inc.
Jasmine Import & Export Inc.
Jerry Leigh Entertainment Apparel
Jewel Corner
Joan Walters
Kaktus Inc.
Knit Street Ltd.
L.V. Myles Inc.
Laus Apparel Inc.
Linda Kay Designs
Linda Lori Sportswear
Lisa & Me
Louise Paris Ltd. & Highway
Lou Levy Sons
Madeleine Collections
Marcel Fashion
Merchan Technologies
Maxine International
Mickey Unlimited
Mickey Unlimited By Land n’ Sea
Mickey Unlimited/Glentex
Mister Noah
Morning Sun
MPW Trading Corporation
Newood Display Fixtures
Nina Piccalino
Nisha Sportswear Inc.
O’Brian Sportwear/Select Clothing
Papillon Eastern Imports Inc.
Penikam Vogue Collections
Peter Popovitch
Pier-Fore Fashions
Pueblo Spirit Collection
Rainbow West Apparel Inc.
Rod Ent./Rio Inc.
Saddle River Sportswear/Accessories
Sara Lee Knit Products
Shane Mastera Silko Fashions Inc.
Simply Barbara of Colorado
Skiva Int.
Sportswear Group LLC
Star of India/Nostalgia
Starwear/Star Ride
Stoneage Arts Inc.
Tahiti Apparel
The Weekend Exercise Company
Tina Barri-Blondie and Me
Velva Sheen Mfg. Company
Western Connection-Claudia Richard
Whitlock Designs
Wide Pacific Development Inc.
Woolrich Inc.
Zontee