NEW YORK ON HOLD

Ellen Tracy: Linda Allard knows how to put together a winning collection with appealing colors, great fabrics and just the right mix of trends. And Allard delivers those trends in palatable doses that her customer can understand and feel confident wearing. It’s a formula that has made Ellen Tracy a powerhouse in the bridge market and boosted 1995 sales to over $250 million.
This season, Allard hits such key looks as long and lean, military and slim pants — showing terrific takes on ankle-length, A-line skirts, maxi officer coats, leather peacoats, the skinniest jeans and, of course, the item-of-the-moment — the turtleneck.
Her flattering color palette ranges from lipstick red and deep chocolate brown to gentle neutrals. And she was at her best with the season’s favorite plum tones, sending out a striking aubergine taffeta shirt with an iridescent mauve pantsuit.

RICHARD TYLER: There’s a thin line between hip and ugly. And in a world in which hip is revered as the ultimate grail, sometimes a designer is led across it. That’s just what happened in the collection Richard Tyler showed on Thursday. The whole affair was simply excruciating in its efforts to be edgy, from the frightful makeup to the bizarre plays of fabrics and textures — not to mention a backless evening dress that dipped so low in back you could see a dingy G-string. Some said it was intentional. For Tyler’s sake, let’s hope not. But it does seem that Tyler did all he could to distract his audience from what he does best, which is make beautiful, glamorous suits and drop-dead evening dresses. And if you waded through all the trash and vaudeville, they were there, along with some sophisticated argyle knits and lovely velvet coats. That’s presumably what people will want to buy.

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