MILAN: THE FINALE
THERE WAS A TOUCH OF THE SEVENTIES AND MEN’S WEAR INSPIRATIONS, BUT THE REAL SHOWSTOPPER WAS UMA THURMAN’S APPEARANCE AT FERRETTI. WHAT A WAY TO END THE SEASON.
ALBERTA FERRETTI: There are many ways to recall the Seventies, and not everybody opts for the high-gloss, decadent route. Alberta Ferretti, for example, seems to have more romantic remembrances. Hers are swathed in a sea of velvet — panne, printed, cut. Remember the maxicoat? Ferretti does, and she showed it in numerous sweeping, high-waisted versions over short dresses or velvet pants. She favors a lean silhouette, and rich-toned textural plays of laces, chiffons, suedes and embossed leathers. Sometimes it all got to be too much, especially when Ferretti added collars of mangy-looking fake fur, and there were hints of Galliano in the chiffon eveningwear. Nevertheless, much of the collection had a certain charm.
FENDI PELLICCE MODA PRONTA: The Fendi sisters have embraced hip. Just as Karl Lagerfeld cleaned up the signature collection, their lower-priced fur line, Fendi Pellicce Moda Pronta, is also pared down for fall. “Fur today has to be toned down, not flashy,” said Alda Fendi. “That’s why we mostly used short-haired furs.” Looks this season included weasel polo-shirts and shirtjackets, sweeping mink-lined camel coats, belted leather jackets with fur collars and cuffs, zipped persian lamb jackets and reversed shearling coats. In 1995, 7,000 pieces were sold worldwide, 2,500 of them in the U.S. Moda Pronta, priced 20 percent below Fendi’s signature collection, is available at Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue.
CIVIDINI: This Italian house is known for its luxurious knits, and they had plenty of great ones for fall. But they are really trying to make a pitch for their sportswear, which is mostly men’s-wear-inspired and has the requisite dose of Prada influence. For fall, that means some great peacoats, flared pants and two-tone shift dresses.