MILAN KEEPS PERKING
REPTILES AT MOSCHINO…MEN’S WEAR LOOKS AT TRUSSARDI…AND SNOW-BUNNY KNITS AT LES COPAINS.
MOSCHINO: Mix-and-match was not the theme of the Moschino collection this season. Mix-and-clash was more like it. The enormous design team that took over when Franco Moschino died in 1994 let loose with a riot of reptilian prints that left some of the audience reeling and others raving. “It was a sophisticated, serious collection,” said Joel Rath, president of Holt Renfrew, who loved the leaf and animal prints.
The show inclued a few of Moschino’s prankish touches, including a witty satire of the Prada bag. Instead of “Prada,” the logo read “Pasta.” But the few serious looks, particularly black leather evening dresses, were the highlights of the collection.
The company’s volume hit $225 million in 1995, up slightly from 1994, according to Marco Gobbetti, managing director. But the firm’s accessories, especially handbags, are exploding; sales rose 43 percent to $32 million in 1995.
TRUSSARDI: Nicola Trussardi says he’s convinced people want to move swiftly and easily through life. And to keep them going, he offers two options. For super-casual days, there’s T-Store, a street-inspired basics line strong on denim. When it’s time to get serious, Trussardi’s signature collection offers good-looking takes on men’s wear, in military coats, boxy tweed jackets and Shetland sweaters that look as if they had been rummaged from the perfect thrift store.
LES COPAINS: This company’s tried-and-true, perky and salable clothes hit the mark again for fall. Les Copains focused on city-chic knits — cableknit coats and belted jackets, cropped snow-bunny cardigans over A-line dresses and slinky tunics over jersey pants, all in a delicate neutral palette. With revenues of $150 million projected for this year, Les Copains is setting its sights on the U.S. and plans to open its first retail outlet there — a 900-square-foot store on Madison Avenue — by the end of the year. The collection is currently available at Saks Fifth Avenue and at some 50 sales points throughout the U.S.
MASKA: Three seasons ago, Maska set out to become a new staple for the working woman’s wardrobe. Now it’s shooting even higher with a new line, Maska Collection, that’s priced at the designer level. Launched Thursday with the help of Gerard Depardieu, the collection is packed with slim-fitting tailored suits in stretch fabrics, crisp plaids and vibrant velvets. Meanwhile, Maska and M.K. — the company’s bridge line — are still growing steadily. The company said it’s expecting wholesale volume to reach $95.6 million this year — a 20 percent rise over 1995.