AND NOW, NEW YORK
It’s a jumble out there, and New York’s opening fall collections had it all: Seventies, Eighties, minimal, military — take your pick. Here, some highlights from the first few days.
If the name isn’t enough to attract your attention, Spooky’s design team, Roger Padilha and Jennifer Groves, has a few ideas that will. There are lilting Braveheart tartans, suede tunics and plenty of Eighties inspirations.
Isabel Toledo has been pleasing her private clients for the past 10 years, and more recently, retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Ultimo have been spreading her message. Toledo’s artsy numbers aren’t for everyone, but her tailored tweeds and brocades are perfect for women who like their fashion on the idiosyncratic side.
It was Susan Lazar’s first runway show, but she’s already built a nice little business that’s expected to hit $4 million this year. This season, she’s placed her chips on the Seventies theme, from Ali McGraw cardigans to suede military coats.
Anni Kuan has always gone the spare route, and she does it well enough to attract stores like Barneys and Fred Segal. Her business is small, but growing — up 25 percent from 1995 to an estimated $1 million this year. Kuan delivers her minimalist message for fall with long jackets over narrow pants and simple shifts in iridescents.
Chompol Serimont couldn’t get anyone to buy his collection last season, but here he is back again for another try. He’s switched showrooms to the TAG Apparel Group, filled his fall collection with rich donegal tweeds, doubleknits and maxicoats, and is out to snag some major stores both here and in Asia.