THE PARIS COLLECTIONS
Celine: The Celine collection has been selling up a storm in its own boutiques. It’s for those women, and there are legions, who like a wardrobe packed with dash — and a little flash. The focus was on a tight silhouette delivered with bold flourishes — big, gold zippers on suits and parkas, gigantic rooster-feather frills on black dresses and suits, slim pants tucked into ankle boots with sexy high heels. But the biggest message was color — lots of it. The Celine woman is certainly no slave to black. She’d rather wear red, in tight, tailored leather, or put brown leather pants under mango or purple jackets. There were also easy-going knits worn in multiple layers of a single strong color, and bright coats that ranged from princess numbers to big, sweeping shapes. The bravado continued into evening with long siren dresses in daring combinations of red and black.
Jean-Louis Scherrer: He might not have broken any new fashion ground in his first collection for the house, but designer Jean-Philippe Bouyer did put things back on track with a coherent collection dominated by suits. Animal and reptile patterns took a leading role for day, and there were also short and long, fringed-suede wrap skirts. Other highlights were the pink or black patent leather miniskirts and a fitted, cropped black faille jacket. Bouyer, who has designed Christian Dior’s fur collection for the past six years, was one of the few designers to use real mink trim this season. It turned up on several cloth coats. “Women who like fur will always wear it,” he said.
Michel Klein: Klein came up with a novel way of presenting his collection this season. He got Jean Baptiste Mondino to shoot Kristen McMenamy in 22 outfits, then displayed the resulting giant black-and-white prints in a gallery in the Marais. “The way this season has gone, with strikes and fights, I’m glad I wasn’t part of it,” explained Klein, who showed informally over a four-day period.
The dramatic photos set off his cool, no-frills clothes. This season, there were safari jackets worn with cigarette pants, military jackets over knee-length skirts and gently shaped cardigans shown with white poplin shirts and tennis shorts. Taking the collection on the road should be easy, too. A catalog of the Mondino images will be mailed out next month, and shows of the prints are already scheduled for Marseilles, Tokyo and New York.