Gianfranco Ferre may not seem like a renegade, but that’s exactly the role he played during the Milan collections last week. Conservative Chic? Remembering mamma? Forget it. Ferre stuck to his guns and sent out a collection that was high-glamour to its unapologetic core. There wasn’t a trace of that polite, early-Sixties retro others are so taken with; if anything, Ferre would rather resurrect the power bombshell of the Eighties.
His forte is making womanly clothes for a secure customer who wants to be noticed. This time he did it by paring down his accessories and some of his more extreme proportions. And while you’d hardly call the end result discreet, it was smart and had a certain sophisticated energy. Ferre also showed in a smaller venue than usual at the Triennale, the better to showcase the high quality and intricate workmanship of his clothes.
And there was plenty to see, starting with the tightest silhouettes in town — slivers and suits; ribknit dresses with sheer insets; even some of the parkas and fake-fur jackets fit like a glove. Ferre also showed pencil-thin trousers and beautiful white shirts and his coats were absolute knockouts. At night, the standouts were movie-star robes, especially a black wool faced in black velvet. But his high glamour went hyper with elvet-and-chiffon siren dresses that were too darned haute.