Byline: Katherine Weisman

PARIS — At next month’s Premiere Vision, color is In and the complicated show structure is Out.
Premiere Vision, the showcase of European fabrics, is set for March 10-13. Ten new companies will be represented, bringing the total to 530 exhibitors representing 824 firms, a 1.8 percent increase over the March 1994 stand.
Over the past few seasons, under former president Bertrand Bocreis de Junneman, who stepped down last fall, Premiere Vision was criticized for having become too commercial.
Now, under new president and longtime industry member Robert Brochier, Premiere Vision managers want to get the show back to basics, while creating a formula that will assure its leadership in the future. “We want to be commercial, but only on the stands,” Brochier said.
The entry fee structure that was established last season will remain. The standard fee is about $38 (200 francs). Only buyers capable of showing some $9,400 (50,000 francs) worth of past orders from three exhibiting companies are able to pre-register. They are entitled to a reduced entrance fee of $28 (150 francs). Computerized services, such as bar-code readers at the stands, will be simplified. Last season they broke down, as virtually every task — from printing identification badges to tallying attendance — was done through the computer hooked up to the bar coder, and it drained the system. They also were too costly, Brochier said.
“We wanted to add performance last season, but the computer system was just too complex,” he said. “You can’t justify a whole system like that just for a four-day show.”
This season, exhibitors will have to pay for bar-code readers. Organizers will also no longer be able to get instant attendance figures, but will be able to have day-end figures, Brochier said. Last season’s “Marketing” and “Derniere Minute” showcase exhibits have been eliminated.
A new space, called “Espace Liberte,” will be implemented to showcase fabric samples from roughly 400 companies that chose either not to send samples corresponding to Premiere Vision’s color scheme used for trend exhibits, or that had additional fabrics outside the color scheme they thought were worthy of highlighting.
Premiere Vision is planning to introduce newly designed stands at the October 1995 session. Design plans, however, have not been completed.
As for fashion direction, Richard Hochmann, fashion director and board member of Premiere Vision, said, “Summer 1996 will be a very exciting season. Natural fibers will become more sophisticated, less ‘natural,’ while synthetics will take on a new dynamism, while at the same time, becoming more subtle,” Hochmann said.
Fabrics made from wool, linen and cotton “will lose their natural side through blends and will boast cleaner looks and finishes,” he said, while fabrics made from man-made fibers “will be better balanced between the more traditionally shiny finishes to opaque and matte treatments.”
Color is coming on strong in a palette that ranges from pearlescent pastels to tropical brights, Hochmann said, noting an increased liking for subdued jungle greens and browns. Hochmann added that the new importance of color, starting to be seen already, implies there will be a strong return to prints. — Fairchild News Service