It was kind of Greenwich-meets-Via-Sant’Andrea as Miuccia Prada and her merry band of stylists took retro where it’s never been taken before — to the Junior League. Attention, Peck & Peck shoppers: Your day has come again. If you’ve been running out of rose-print suits, box-pleated skirts or satin deb dresses, fret no more. Prada has them all — with matching shoes to boot. The problem, of course, just as it was back in the heyday of the scrub-faced WASPette, is that, if you’re not careful with these clothes, you can look dowdy — and a little broad around the beam. The difference is that now, you will be one thing you never, ever were before: hip.
But if woody station wagons aren’t your favorite mode of transportation, Prada still has a lot to offer. There were plenty of new dresses with wide hip belts, suits with boxy jackets and cigarette pants, ponyskin coats and great tight sweaters. Prada also likes camel hair for skirts as well as coats. But her best idea — borrowed yet again from the country-club set — was the new principessa coat, high-waisted and stiff.
As for all those other designers who follow Miuccia’s every move, they should be aware that she has abandoned not only sheer fabrics but also the skinny belt, which she’s replaced with a new, wide one, slung low on the hips. They should also know that Prada has embraced a new color choice for shoes — yellow. It’s the new red, as the fashion mavens will inevitably proclaim.