MORE MILAN ACTION

Byline:

Iceberg: The in-house design team here didn’t seem to miss Marc Jacobs in its first full-fledged runway show. It hopped right on the red-hot Mod train with an upbeat CourrAges-meets-Sergeant Pepper collection. There were plastic-coated checks and pinstripes, patent-trimmed A-lines and versions of British bobby hats. It all looked so of-the-moment — until the sequined-cum-sheer finale.

Laura Biagiotti: Fake fur has been all over the runways here, and even the Queen of Cashmere came up with her own woolly versions of shaggy sheepskin and Persian lamb, used as trim on loose jackets and around the borders of skirts. She also did twisted wool appliques and leopard and snakeskin prints. But Biagiotti’s best looks were the sheer cashmere sweaters, skinny ribbed dresses and tube skirts.

Sportmax: For every Modster, there’s a proper deb — and Sportmax is just her ticket. By day, she can slip into skinny sweaters with cigarette pants, full skirts or good-looking pastel coats with fake fur collars. When she’s feeling naughty, there are some great jackets in black distressed leather. But the full pleated skirts for evening cotillions looked a little matronly.

Missoni: When you put yourself in the hands of stylists, you run a strong risk of losing your identity, and on Monday, knitwear powerhouse Missoni did just that. Where were all the beautiful sweaters that people from all around the world buy from Missoni? Some of them were there, but you had to look very hard. And why make an audience wade through Saran-wrap boas and spiky icicle caps? The Missonis are better than this, and everyone knows it.

Anna Molinari: This erstwhile troop leader to fashion’s Lolitas played her usual sweet-tart tune with siren sweater dresses, pastel bustiers that were down-filled and feather-trimmed and pretty tweed suits with naughty tight skirts. While the collection was not without its charms, this time Anna’s sexy babes lacked their typical spunk.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Ferragamo paid homage to the French couture this season with a collection that focused on fit and color. It was well-made, and should appeal to the customer who likes to look pulled-together and perfectly presentable. Unfortunately, the collection lacked the zip that it’s had for the past few seasons, and the only true stars were the smart-looking coats.

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