ARDEN REFITS FOUNDATIONS WITH 3 ENTRIES
Byline: Julie L. Belcove
NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden is completing an overhaul of its foundation business this spring with the introduction of three new formulas and the implementation of a uniform shade range.
The restaging began last fall, when Arden brought all of its foundations under the Flawless Finish umbrella, repackaged three of its formulas and expanded their color selections.
With the launch of the new formulas in April, executives said, the foundation range will be more high tech and benefit-driven. “We were selling foundation on the basis of finish alone,” said Carol Malouf Chartouni, director of marketing development for makeup. “I think foundation has moved light years in the last few years.”
Victoria Connell, vice president of marketing development for makeup and skin care, added that foundation “is really a hot topic now, with the return to glamour in fashion and beauty.”
The new formulas, all under the Flawless Finish rubric, are:
Hydro Light Foundation SPF 10, a cream-gel that contains ceramides to moisturize and soothe, light-reflecting pigments and a very low level of alpha-hydroxy acids. It has a satin finish and will retail for $30 for a 1-oz. jar.
Everyday Makeup SPF 10, a liquid with self-adjusting moisturizers and light-reflecting pigments. Everyday Makeup replaces Arden’s Flawless Finish Liquid with a Dewy Finish because, Chartouni said, “[The word] dewy is old, and it’s sticky.”
The new foundation offers a “natural” finish, which she said is between matte and moist. A 1-oz. bottle will retail for $25.
Complete Control Matte Makeup SPF 10, a lightweight liquid with a self-adjusting oil-control system and pigments that absorb light for a matte finish. It gives a matte look and replaces Arden’s Flawless Finish Liquid Makeup with Matte Finish. Complete Control will retail for $25 for a 1-oz. bottle.
All the new formulas offer medium coverage and are fragrance-free, oil-free and non-acnegenic, according to John P. McCook, vice president of research and development. McCook said each also contains a natural, non-irritating sunscreen and a new anti-oxidant compound of Vitamins C and E and sage extract.
Thanks to the restaging of Flawless Finish, the foundation business should jump to over 20 percent of the total Arden business in 1995 from about 15 percent last year, according to Mark Loomis, vice president of retail marketing.
Arden executives declined to discuss volume, but industry sources have estimated the firm’s annual U.S. sales at about $270 million wholesale. The foundation business would therefore grow from about $40.5 million wholesale to more than $54 million.
Loomis said the new liquids should boost that category, which now represents only about one-third of Arden’s foundation business. “Normally liquids are about two-thirds of the foundation market in the U.S., so we think we have an enormous opportunity,” he said.
In a move to simplify its foundation range for both beauty advisers and consumers, Arden has developed a uniform range of 12 global shades for each of the new formulas plus the three existing foundations: Sponge-On Cream Makeup, Dual Perfection Makeup and Mousse Makeup.
Anne Eberhardt, retail marketing manager for makeup, noted that the uniform shade range will make changing foundation seasonally or for day and night use easier for women.
The company studied a couple of thousand women and mapped out their skin tones, particularly the degrees of yellow and red, before settling on the dozen colors, McCook said.
Arden is waiting until the fall to break a new Flawless Finish ad campaign, according to Connell. Until then, the company is focusing on in-store promotion.
From April through June, Arden will give away almost one million cartoned, deluxe samples of the two new liquid formulas, said Eberhardt. Each of the samples, which will be available in all 12 shades, will be about a month’s supply.
The company will get the word out with 15 million to 20 million pieces of direct mail and blow-in cards.
Arden also plans to include about one million pieces of its Dual Perfection and Sponge-On foundations in its spring gift-with-purchase offer, Eberhardt said.