AFTER A 23-YEAR HIATUS, PIERRE CARDIN IS INSATIABLE

Byline: Soren Larson

NEW YORK — Pierre Cardin will launch his first men’s fragrance in 23 years this summer when Insatiable hits the shelves.
The new scent will be sold exclusively in the 650 doors of J.C. Penney Co. for two weeks in June and will then be rolled out to a 10,000-door distribution by Tsumura International, Cardin’s fragrance licensee in the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico.
“Insatiable will appeal to that classic Cardin user, but it’s also directed at a younger consumer,” said Alfonso J. Lopez, president of Tsumura’s consumer products group.
He noted that while Pierre Cardin, launched in 1972, is most popular with 30- to 45-year-olds, Insatiable will be targeted at the 18- to 34-year-old range.
Tsumura recently cleaned up the older Cardin’s distribution, Lopez said, restricting it to “lower-tier department stores” such as Penney’s, along with drugstore chains. “You won’t find us at discounters and flea markets anymore,” he said.
As a result, he noted, the signature scent “is very strong.”
“It was in the top five at Penney’s last year,” Lopez said.
The high ranking at Penney’s was confirmed by Ann Gravseth, the store’s merchandise manager for cosmetics and accessories, at an industry gathering in January.
With the refocused distribution, the signature men’s fragrance did about $25 million at retail last year, Lopez said. Insatiable, which will have a similar distribution as the signature scent, could have an equivalent volume within two years “and then be bigger,” he noted. “It’s got the newness factor.”
Insatiable will benefit this year from an advertising and promotional budget of $3 million. Efforts will include a print advertising campaign, beginning in June issues of GQ and Mademoiselle and continuing through the year, along with regional television spots, also starting in June.
The print ad features an embracing couple superimposed on an image of a waterfall, with a tagline that reads, “Drench your body. Drench her soul.”
“We think it has a payoff for both men and women — and you’d better deliver that because women still buy half of men’s fragrances,” Lopez said.
He added, “We looked at a lot of different images, but the waterfall was in from day one.”
The Insatiable bottle is similar to that of the original Cardin, Lopez said, but the fragrance itself is more modern — a fresh, citrusy top note with a woodsy dry down.
The product line will range in price from $8.50 for a 2.5-oz. deodorant and $13.50 for a 1-oz. aftershave to $32.50 for a 2.8-oz. eau de toilette spray.
“Cardin has the image of being the affordable designer,” Lopez said.
Nevertheless, price points of the first Cardin will be raised “around 8 to 10 percent” to achieve parity with Insatiable, Lopez noted. “We thought that would be less confusing to the consumer,” he said.
In addition to Insatiable, Tsumura is plotting a U.S. introduction for Enigme, the Cardin women’s fragrance launched in Europe in December 1993. Rose Cardin, another women’s item, was introduced here in 1992, but was not a success and is not part of Tsumura’s focus, Lopez said.
“We’ll be taking [Enigme] in the fall into the top department stores of Macy’s/Federated and May Co.,” he said. “But it’s really a trial run, and it will be on a very limited basis. It might take us another year to get it out.”

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