DONNA’S FULL DECK

Byline:

NEW YORK — Suddenly, pre-fall is a big deal. And to hear Donna Karan tell it, she’s dealing a bigger hand than some other designers. “For me, ‘fall one’ really represents the [upcoming] collection,” Karan says. “This isn’t about early basics with the rest to follow.”
Instead, Karan says her intention was to open a substantial portion of fall early, a decision “driven by the Europeans.” She noted that 50 percent of her collection business is done in Europe and “they need delivery.” Karan’s early fall silhouette is sleek and refined. Suits, either with skirts or dresses, are key, and are cut close to the body in stretch fabrics, often on the bias. A men’s wear mood borrowed from her recent men’s show wafts through the collection, but Karan’s curvy proportions are all girl.
As for her promise to continue in a similar vein for fall, Donna does acknowledge a problem. “That’s the plan,” she says, “but you’re dealing with the psyche of a designer. It’s not easy to say something now and say it again tomorrow.”

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