Byline: Melissa S. Drier
BERLIN — CPD is getting funky.
Reacting to the phenomenal growth of the club scene in Germany and its spillover fashion effect, the Igedo Company is taking the first steps to incorporate clubwear by staging an “In Progress” House ‘n Trance Party and Fashion Subversives show on Friday, Feb. 3. (Trance parties are similar to raves.)
The show will feature primarily not-yet-CPD participants, such as Homeboy Collections, Shoot, Wild & Lethal Trash, Xuly Bet, Komodo, Staz, Professor Head, Next Guro Now and Pax. Bordingirl, a three-time CPD veteran, will also take part. According to company officials, it’s an event designed to “confront the fashion industry with house and techno scene.”
“We’re doing this activity for the retail trade,” said Margit Jandali, Igedo’s marketing director. “We see new opportunities in marketing, and new kinds of merchandise. Retailers today have to look at what young people are wearing,” she asserted. Jandali added that the young fashion segment would influence all areas of the women’s wear market in the upcoming season.
Firms catering to Germany’s young clubbers have tended to show, if they’ve showed at all, at the Sport Fashion section of Interjeans, which runs this year Feb. 3-5, in Cologne. But unisex streetwear has begun to evolve into separate young men’s and women’s ranges. And since women’s wear has embraced “girliewear” with a vengeance, Dusseldorf and CPD, the center of German women’s wear, have begun to beckon. Makers of young fashion who have not been a part of the Dusseldorf scene are starting to respond.
For fall-winter ’95-’96, trendy young fashion resources such as S. Oliver, Street One and Vanilla will be showing at CPD for the first time. S. Oliver, which did DM 50 million ($33 million at current rates) in unisex streetwear and jeans sales last year, is now diversifying into separate men’s and women’s collections. Hence the company’s decision to show at CPD in addition to Interjeans.
“The market has turned away from unisex sportswear. We’re now positioning ourself in the men’s and women’s markets separately,” explained Jurgen Bangert, S. Oliver sales manager. In Bangert’s opinion, Dusseldorf has somewhat “neglected the young fashion sector, so I think we have a good chance.”
Smaller and more pointedly club-oriented labels, such as those involved in the Fashion Subversives show, are also now considering the merits of Dusseldorf. “We’re thinking about it, but CPD is geared toward a somewhat older public,” said Klaus Neupert, sales manager of Plan 2 in Dusseldorf, which represents Hunza, Daniel Poole (men’s), 303 Culture Limited and Zino & Judy.
“Igedo will have to build a show into a show. We [clubwear resources] have to be together, we can’t be scattered,” he said. “And this fashion needs another kind of presentation: a little louder, showier, with party people. But Igedo will have to differentiate itself from Interjeans. It can’t be a copy.”
At present, Halls 9 and 10 are devoted to young fashion ranges, though other collections suitable for that market can be found in Hall 11 and the Dusseldorf Gallery. “Because of girliewear, we hope to expand that sector,” Igedo’s Jandali said. “Our aim is to bring more collections for girls to CPD.”