NEW YORK — Helmut Lang has canceled shipments of his fall women’s and men’s collections, but is expected to return for spring ’95.
Lang, the Vienna-based designer known for his austere shapes and unusual fabrics, was on vacation and declined to comment, but he recently faxed stores here letters saying there would be no fall shipments.
A Barneys New York spokesman said the letter indicated Lang would not ship due to a change in manufacturers, but hoped to have a spring line.
“We’re very disappointed,” said the Barneys spokesman. “We’ve done very well with the men’s and women’s clothing, and it got excellent press for fall.” Barneys carries the collection in its New York and Beverly Hills stores.
Jon Weiser, president of Chariavari Ltd., said he had recieved a letter as well.
“I got a letter from Helmut Lang himself,” Weiser said. “It said he’s made a new [deal] with Kashiyama. He was going to produce the fall collection himself in Austria, but I guess it didn’t pan out.”
Weiser said Lang’s problem “is all because of growth.”
“It’s a shame because this is really his moment,” Weiser said. “We were retailing his collection really well last season. There were a few seasons at first that it didn’t do so well. It’s frustrating.”
Barbara Schwartz, president of Zamasport U.S.A., which distributes Lang’s line here, confirmed the designer had canceled fall, but said she did not know what prompted the move.
“I do know that he does have a new manufacturing agreement with Gibo Co., which is the same factory that manufactures [Jean Paul] Gaultier,” she said.
Masahiko Todoroki, president of Kashiyama, which owns the Florence-based Gibo factory, confirmed that Lang had recently completed the new manufacturing agreement. He said the factory will begin producing Lang’s line with spring 1995.

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