COURTAULDS: COLOR, TEXTURE KEY THEMES FOR FALL ’95

Byline: Margaret Mazzaraco

NEW YORK — Continuing to reflect the influence of ready-to-wear with more color and texture, intimate apparel for fall 1995 will head in two key directions. One portrays serious glamour, the other consists of fresh looks aimed at a younger woman.
That’s the word from Joanna Bowring, design director of Courtaulds Textiles, London. Bowring was here recently with design coordinator Sue Chorley for a week of presentations to intimate apparel manufacturers and designers held at the offices of Liberty Fabrics, a Courtaulds Textiles company. A total of 143 people attended.
Bowring dubbed her two key trends Elixir and Intuition, each showing a different feminine side.
The Elixir story, she said, is serious glamour. It “emphasizes decorative laces with sinuous patterns, supple luster and elaborate treatments such as pleating and embroidery,” she said. Influences, she said, are “as diverse as exotic Eastern cultures and pared down, almost masculine styles.”
Bowring showed laces from Galler U.S.A. and Desseilles America to illustrate the look.
Intuition, she continued, is a much softer, younger and fresher trend, reactivating traditional lingerie for the younger customer who before might have worn functional underwear, Bowring said. Here, laces incorporate cotton and a touch of luster in floral designs, done with small-scale net and mesh grounds in such blends as cotton and Lycra spandex.
Chorley also noted, “Shape is back in a big way with push-up styles becoming increasingly important in innerwear, making women feel like women.”
For those who prefer something simpler in bras, pared-down styling with a focus on details continues, she said, with soft fabrics of microfibers getting attention in matte or dull luster finishes.
Bowring and Chorley pointed out that there is more color on the palette, with particular emphasis on dark raisin, brown and soft rose and green.
Two additional fashion themes were presented by the pair. Hinterland featured classics that they described as going “wild for urban living” in argyles, plaids, mohair, mélange ribs and fleece. Lingerie with retro details, dense textural laces and simple waffle knits fit into the theme. Fusion, another theme, highlighted high tech fabrics contrasted with soft surfaces and clean linear lace patterns.
Complementing their forecast was an audiovisual showing of runway presentations of the fall 1994 collections of a number of European and American designers.

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