NEW YORK — Spring collections continued even after the tents came down. Glamour still reigns for day and evening — from a bevy of beads to body-shaping silhouettes.
Vera Wang: Wang has been adding delicate beadwork to her minimal evening creations. For spring, she went a little further, tastefully putting texture into her looks rather than glitz. There were lattice-pattern silver bra tops and cardigans paired with sexy satin cigarette pants and a Joan of Arc-like tunic in silver and crystal beads. But she also showed slips and gowns sans the beads that were just as glam.
Fernando Sanchez: Sanchez is no stranger to the slip or bustier, and his spring eveningwear collection had plenty of both. The sexiest were slips in mesh lace and cocktail dresses with corsets built in. But the designer did more than thrust the bust. He showed beautifully draped halter gowns and reembroidered lace mermaid dresses that hugged the body.
Jeannene Booher: This spring, Booher added new zest to her collection. There were fitted suits and dresses with touches of retro from the Forties to the Seventies. And Booher softened some of the season’s hottest looks for her ladylike customers — satin showed up sparingly on lapels and bodices, while corsets were reserved for evening. Also outstanding for night, elegant white matte jersey dresses and gowns with sexy ribbon lace midriffs.
Stephen DiGeronimo: In the homey setting of a Fifth Avenue penthouse, models strolled through the living room wearing short pastel sweater dresses with chunky cables and popcorn stitching. DiGeronimo was partial to the dress, showing pale sequined numbers in simple shapes like the T-shirt, racerback and swingy Empire. But there were also clean, cropped turtlenecks and polo shirts paired with short shorts or capri pants, all under swingy jackets.
Abbijane: Abbijane’s concise collection centered on fit-and-flare shapes, either jackets that doubled as dresses or floor-length numbers reminiscent of the 1800s. But the designer is in love with Hollywood glamour, too, sending out a dramatic ankle-grazing linen tie-collar coat, similar to the one that Deborah Kerr wore in “An Affair to Remember”.