Despite all the big shoulders and flouncy skirts on other runways, Calvin Klein is sticking to his minimalist guns. He believes — like Miuccia Prada and Helmut Lang, who began the current minimalist rage — that modern women want clean, simple fashion that has a flattering shape, but little adornment.
With his advertising and marketing muscle, Klein is determined to bring the look to America, despite reports from many stores that women here are refusing to accept what’s been dubbed the New Length. Calvin is unfazed — he didn’t send out a single short skirt. The single biggest shift was the tightened silhouette, which replaced last season’s bias shapes. “These are clothes that make women look like women,” Calvin said before the show, and he hasn’t been this sexy in seasons. The suits were beautifully cut, following the models’ figures, but not harking back to another age. His dresses were equally shapely, which is no big news elsewhere, but a virtual revolution at Calvin. Most were shown in black, but there were a few in the palest, chicest pastels.
Like many other designers this season, Klein loves shine. And he showed plenty, in nylon as well as satin, which he used for everything from suits to drop-dead evening dresses — including lots of those lingerie looks he adores. There were terrific little cashmere sweaters, the best of which had teensy-weensy belts — the only accessory in the collection.
One final note: Now that Calvin has taken his fashion to the minimalist minimum, maybe he should do the same with his music. No music would be better than the irritating, grating sound provided by Kevin Edwards.

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