Byline: Dianne M. Pogoda

NEW YORK — Lanvin is off to a rousing start at Saks Fifth Avenue.
In the six weeks since its new boutique has been open, the fall collection has rung up more than $220,000.
Saks officially christened the in-store shop — the first in the U.S. — with a buffet breakfast and the first American showing of the spring Lanvin line on Oct. 26.
Jean-Manuel Pourquet, Lanvin’s director for North and South America, said the ready-to-wear collection is expected to bring in about $1 million its first year at Saks.
The 350-square-foot boutique’s design is inspired by the Twenties style of Jeanne Lanvin, the house’s founding couturier. Its opening coincided with the relaunch of Arpège, Lanvin’s signature fragrance, which has not been available for five years.
Dominique Morlotti, who has been designing the Lanvin collection for three years, said embroidery and fluidity of the clothes are the two key elements of Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy that he keeps in mind when designing the collections.
Lanvin’s women’s and men’s collections are also sold at I. Magnin in San Francisco and Beverly Hills. There are a few numbers from the women’s collection at Barneys New York’s Madison Avenue store, but they are different from what’s available at Saks, said Pourquet. Isaacson’s in Atlanta and Nordstrom in Seattle also carry the line.
The fall collection is doing well at Saks, Pourquet said, particularly coatdresses and organza blouses. He said that in the first month of selling a burgundy wool coatdress sold out of 40 pieces at $1,135, and about 50 organza blouses sold, ranging from $710 to $1,040.
Styles getting the best reaction for spring include a long black and white striped wool crepe jacket and pleated skirt at $1,900 and a short ottoman trenchcoat with wide-leg pants, at $2,300.
Arpège is exclusive to Saks here and is carried by six Magnin’s on the West Coast. The fragrance was developed in 1927, and was a bestseller in the U.S. in the Forties and Fifties, said Pourquet.
In the Sixties, however, the firm changed the formula and the bottle to make Arpège “more contemporary,” he said.
“It was detrimental to the fragrance,” he said. “So we have gone back to the original bottle and formula, with all natural ingredients. Five years ago, we removed all Arpège from around the world — we had to clean up the market before we could reintroduce the scent.”
Arpege is marketed and distributed in the U.S. by Cosmair, a division of L’Oreal.

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