COTY CUTS COSMETICS FROM ROSSELLINI LINE
Byline: Julie Naughton, New York / Brid Costello, Paris
NEW YORK — Call it a shortened Manifesto.
Coty’s Lancaster division said Tuesday that it will stop producing Isabella Rossellini’s Manifesto cosmetics collection, but will still continue with her fragrance and bath lines, and, in fact, will launch a second Rossellini scent this fall.
“We did a full assessment of the business and identified that quality was an issue [for the Manifesto color line] and that its positioning was not understood by customers,” said Catherine Walsh, senior vice president, international marketing, cosmetics and American licenses for the Coty-owned Lancaster Group Worldwide in Paris. “We are moving forward with the Manifesto [fragrance and bath line].
Rossellini began her relationship with Coty’s Lancaster division in 1994, after Lancome ended its 14-year relationship with her as its spokesmodel. At that time, she signed a development deal with Lancaster to develop cosmetics projects.
The Manifesto cosmetics line was introduced in September 1999 and was designed to be accessible, rather than inspirational, as Rossellini herself pointed out. But it was also ambitious: a 148-plus stockkeeping unit that was in fewer than 10 doors during its first year. The eye shadows, blushes, eye, lip and cheek colors, transparent powder and compact foundations were all packaged in clear acrylic pots with built-in mirrors on their backs.
While Walsh wouldn’t comment on numbers, sources estimated the makeup line was producing $2 million or less at retail in the U.S. per year.
Rossellini’s Manifesto fragrance, launched in Europe in September 2000 and in the U.S. in February 2001, has reportedly fared much better than the color cosmetics. The fragrance line launched with seven sku’s and reportedly did more than $35 million at wholesale globally in its first year.
Walsh emphasized that the firm’s relationships with other celebrities had no influence over the decision to cease production of the Manifesto color line, despite reports that Lancaster was trimming the Manifesto line to make room for its new Jennifer Lopez fragrance.