FORWARD INTO FALL
FROM FRINGE TO FEATHERS, WWD LOOKS AT AUTUMN’S MUST-HAVE ACCESSORIES.
Byline: Rebecca Kleinman
Theme: Gypsy Queen
Jewelry will be roman-tic, feminine and ornate, good matches for fall’s ruffled and billowy blouses.
Turquoise, which was spring’s major must-have, moves forward, but evolves into deeper shades of blue and green.
Get a piece of the rock: In contrast to the squeaky-clean cut stones of seasons past, fall’s gems are chunkier and rougher, for a more natural effect.
Why stop at one necklace or bracelet? The layering trend continues, in part inspired by Eighties redux. Can the bangle- and rubber-bracelet trends be far behind?
Another Eighties flashback: Earrings continue to grow bigger, brighter, a la Samantha’s geometric discs on the latest “Sex and the City” installment.
Rich jewel tones are a fresh contrast to those girly, pearly, pinks, blues and white.
THE BUZZ: Christie Martin, the Los Angeles-based designer of an eponymous jewelry line, predicted consumers will be tired of the sweet, small rhinestones that have dominated the market for many seasons. Instead, she felt the tide will turn back toward gemstones such as garnet, carnelian, citrine,
and quartz….Carolee Friedlander, president of Greenwich, Conn.-based Carolee
Designs, will show a range of rich wine colors from garnet to brown topaz. “Women respond to color; it’s an emotional purchase,” she said….Jill Pearson, designer for Wasabi, a South Pasadena, Calif.-based jewelry line, will also show Kahlo-esque looks for fall, with lots of Mexican reds, greens and blues paired with antique silver.
Theme: In Search of Spirituality
Crosses and crucifixes of every shape and size are being spotted on just about every celebrity from Britney Spears to Drew Barrymore.
Gemstones alleged to have healing powers — emerald, aquamarine, turquoise, rose quartz — will be used in pendants, beaded necklaces, bracelets and rings.
THE BUZZ: Mark Edge, designer of an Atlanta-based jewelry line of the same name, has seen his business skyrocket to the heavens with this theme. “I already was selling a lot of crosses, but after Sept. 11, it got really crazy. I think people are looking for things that are handmade, real and calming.”….Arthur Phillips, president and chief executive officer for Phillips International, an accessories firm based in Hallandale, Fla., said jewelry symbolizing tribal or Celtic philosophies is important. “It goes back to Sept. 11. People are searching for meaning in their lives to understand the world they’re living in.” Goldman said traditional fashion basics, including star and cross pendants, have been popular with buyers…At Bloomingdale’s, Joyce Packman, divisional merchandise manager of fashion accessories, said the craze for color, sentimental jewelry, and pendants, especially hearts and crosses, will likely continue into fall.
Theme: Viennese Vintage
Peacock-bright, heavily decorative, ornate jewelry, like what the subject of Gustav Klimt portrait might have worn.
Design motifs draw from a variety of cultures and periods including Asian, Art Deco and Art Nouveau. The fan shape will be important.
Pearlized, colored glass used in necklaces, pendants, and earrings.
Though longer styles will dominate, and assortment of necklaces of varying lengths, from chokers to pendants, will be worn together.
THE BUZZ: Lee Angel’s Patti Horn said all eyes will be on the ears for this trend, as earrings are its focus. She also reports pieces will be more delicate…Louis Comfort Tiffany’s starburst design from the early 1900s has been interpreted by a handful of designers…Sue Ann Newberg, vice president and divisional merchandise manager at Saks Fifth Avenue, noted that top trends include long, drop earrings and pendants, longer open chain necklaces that wrap around the neck twice and multicolored gemstones…For fall, Janny Co. incorporates antique glass imported from Europe.
Theme: The Good Earth
The hit movie “The Lord of the Rings” has inspired hobbit-friendly fashion. Soft leathers and suedes that hug the body have an earthy quality.
Colors are earthy, too. There is excitement about rich cognacs, browns and purples.
Handmade trim and detail continues in macrame, embroidery and whip stitching.
Shiny silver and gold give way to antique metals. Copper and brass are major components of the trend.
Belts are dotted with natural or faux stones like agates.
THE BUZZ: “Everything is old and natural like it was taken from a treasure trove or the earth. It’s very artistic and exotic, too. The more flamboyant, the better,” said Rahleen Bloch, vice president and designer of Leatherock, a belt company in San Diego…At Christian Lacroix, a long, pleated sheer dress was topped off with a wide, ornate, metal belt. Downing said suede belts will work back nicely to fall’s grany boot trend or the bandleader boots seen at Marc Jacobs.