FORWARD INTO FALL
FROM FRINGE TO FEATHERS TO FRIDA KAHLO, WWD LOOKS AT AUTUMN’S MUST-HAVES IN ACCESSORIES.
Byline: Rebecca Kleinman
Theme: Gypsy Queen
Jewelry will be romantic, feminine and ornate, good matches for fall’s ruffled and billowy blouses.
Turquoise, which was spring’s major must-have, moves forward, but evolves into deeper shades of blue and green.
Get a piece of the rock: In contrast to the squeaky-clean cut stones of seasons past, fall’s gems are chunkier and rougher, for a more natural effect.
Why stop at one necklace or bracelet? The layering trend continues, in part inspired by Eighties redux. Can the bangle- and rubber-bracelet trends be far behind?
Another Eighties flashback: Earrings continue to grow bigger, brighter, a la Samantha’s geometric discs on the latest “Sex and the City” installment.
Rich jewel tones are a fresh contrast to those girly, pearly, pinks, blues and white.
THE BUZZ: Christie Martin, the Los Angeles-based designer of an eponymous jewelry line, predicted consumers will be tired of the sweet, small rhinestones that have dominated the market for many seasons. Instead, she felt the tide will turn back toward gemstones such as garnet, carnelian, citrine, and quartz….Carolee Friedlander, president of Greenwich, Conn.-based Carolee Designs, will show a range of rich wine colors from garnet to brown topaz. “Women respond to color; it’s an emotional purchase,” she said…. Janet Goldman, owner of Fragments, a chain of several New York based showrooms and stores, expected gypsy looks to prevail: dangly, jangly coin necklaces and Mexican filigree earrings, and colorful stones in rustic, handmade-looking settings….Jill Pearson, designer for Wasabi, a South Pasadena, Calif.-based jewelry line, will show Kahlo-esque looks for fall, with lots of Mexican reds, greens and blues paired with antique silver.
Theme: In Search of Spirituality
Crosses and crucifixes of every shape and size are being spotted on just about every celebrity from Britney to Drew Barrymore.
Talk about a reverse “Rumplestiltskin.” Instead of being hung on gold and silver chains, crosses and pendants are being hung on monastic-looking strands of suede or cord.
Gemstones alleged to have healing powers — emerald, aquamarine, turquoise, rose quartz — will be used in pendants, beaded necklaces, bracelets and rings.
THE BUZZ: Mark Edge, designer of an Atlanta-based jewelry line of the same name, has seen his business skyrocket to the heavens with this theme. “I already was selling a lot of crosses, but after Sept. 11, it got really crazy. I think people are looking for things that are handmade, real and calming.”….Arthur Phillips, president and chief executive officer for Phillips International, an accessories firm based in Hallandale, Fla., said jewelry symbolizing tribal or Celtic philosophies is important. “It goes back to Sept. 11. People are searching for meaning in their lives to understand the world they’re living in.”…Fantasia, known for its copies of real diamond and gemstone jewelry, reported cross pendants are expected to sell well for fall. At Bloomingdale’s, Joyce Packman, divisional merchandise manager of fashion accessories, said the craze for color, sentimental jewelry, and pendants, especially hearts and crosses, will likely continue into fall…Yafit Goldberg, owner and designer of Seasonal Whispers, a New York-based accessories company, said suede is a key fabric for jewelry. President Joyce Kaplan of Originals, a New York jewelry firm, said customers prefer cord to chain necklaces…Wasabi features spiritual themes such as Hindu and Asian deities, beads strung onto leather, and colored gemstones like rich red carnelians, green tourmalines, brown pearls, and smoky gray and lemon quartz.
Theme: Viennese Vintage
Peacock-bright, heavily decorative, ornate jewelry, like what the subject of a Gustav Klimt portrait might have worn.
Design motifs draw from a variety of cultures and periods, including Asian, Art Deco and Art Nouveau. The fan shape will be important.
Pearlized, colored glass will be used in necklaces, pendants, and earrings.
Though longer styles will dominate, and assortment of necklaces of varying lengths, from chokers to pendants, will be worn together.
THE BUZZ: Lee Angel’s Patti Horn said all eyes will be on the ears for this trend, as earrings are its focus. She also reports pieces will be more delicate…Louis Comfort Tiffany’s starburst design from the early 1900s has been interpreted by a handful of designers…Sue Ann Newberg, vice president and divisional merchandise manager at Saks Fifth Avenue, noted that top trends include long, drop earrings and pendants, longer open chain necklaces that wrap around the neck twice and multicolored gemstones…For fall, Janny Co. incorporates antique glass imported from Europe.
Theme: Russian Royalty
Deep shades of green, red and amethyst complement rich materials and ornate details fit for a czarina.
After a long hiatus from the fashion arena, velvet makes a comeback. The trend branches out too in velvet burnouts in floral and fleur-de-lis motifs. Watch for textured upholstery fabrics, too.
Sexy, fringe-y “Moulin Rouge”-inspired embellishment continues.
The fuss over feathers won’t abate, but tassels and antique hardware are new on the scene.
THE BUZZ: Chris Birchfield, president and designer of Accessories Unlimited, a handbag and weekend bag manufacturer in Cornish, Maine, listed textured fabrics, French-inspired fabrics, Harris tweed, brushed metal hardware and leather trim as fall trends. “We’re doing plum, sage green and black stripes in a heavy, ribbed cotton and a very detailed toile that looks textured,” she said…Santi for Pierre Urbach, a New York handbag line, offers embroidered velvet chenille, herringbone tweeds in camel and antique metal frames in silver and gold.
Theme: Racy & Retro
Materials and palettes speak to the Seventies, like suede and deerskin in punchy colors.
Simple, traditional styles are reminiscent of the Dooney & Bourke days of the Eighties. Shoulder bags with flap closures return, and large hobo bags were seen all over the New York runways.
Flap closures are spruced up with luxurious materials like fur or leathers with high tech treatments.
Old-fashioned, handmade or unique details remain strong. Bags are decorated with patches, rock ‘n’ roll pins, glitzy brooches and vintage belts for straps.
THE BUZZ: Lisa Yesh, designer of sixd3, a handbag and belt line based in Los Angeles, said the idea is to mix a simple shape with powerful color or texture….Santi for Pierre Urbach has big, chunky hobo bags, daytime totes and clutches with hidden straps in richly colored suedes like brick red. “For fall, I’m doing a lot of embroidered needlepoint looks, especially Mexican roses on suede, and lots of fringe. It’s very western and retro,” said designer Santi Tiangratanakul+At the New York shows, Ken Downing, vice president of public relations for Neiman Marcus, saw a lot of slouchy, oversized suede hobo bags. He also noted that fringe will move forward for fall on bags and belts.
Theme: The Good Earth
The hit movie “The Lord of the Rings” has inspired hobbit-friendly fashion. Soft leathers and suedes that hug the body have an earthy quality.
Colors are earthy, too. There is excitement about rich cognacs, browns and purples.
Handmade trim and detail continues in macrame, embroidery and whip stitching.
Shiny silver and gold give way to antique metals. Copper and brass are major components of the trend.
Belts are dotted with natural or faux stones like agates.
THE BUZZ: “Everything is old and natural like it was taken from a treasure trove or the earth. It’s very artistic and exotic, too. The more flamboyant, the better,” said Rahleen Bloch, vice president and designer of Leatherock, a belt company in San Diego…At Christian Lacroix, a long, pleated sheer dress was topped off with a wide, ornate, metal belt. Downing said suede belts will work back nicely to fall’s granny boot trend or the bandleader boots seen at Marc Jacobs.
Theme: Hippie Hips
Hip-slung belts celebrate fall’s focus on the hips. Plus, they’re perfect for reining in all those loose, unstructured clothes.
Turquoise is cropping up on belts, too, in ethnic, yet sophisticated and feminine versions.
Styles appeal to the Easy Rider in everyone — waists and legs swish with tie belts and fringe.
Tooled leather in western and floral designs turns up again in fall.
THE BUZZ: Chareen Anstey, sales director of Streets Ahead, a belt line based in Los Angeles, said there’s no need for a belt loop with these looks. “They’re meant be thrown on the hips with everything from a pair of jeans to a feminine, ruffled skirt. It’s very gypsy now.” Uri Alter, president of Apropos, reported he’s selling tooled, embossed leather and anything with tassels, embroidery and turquoise…Mark Caughlin, sales and marketing director for Panama City Beach, Fla.-based Killer Beads Inc., said the company’s focus is on belts this year. “We are following the jeans and shirt companies which are putting a lot of attention on the midsection,” he said.