CFDA: CHANGING THE SCHEDULE?
Byline: Eric Wilson
NEW YORK — New York’s fashion week might be looking to bump back some of its competitors abroad.
A small group of designers and retailers met in a closed-door meeting at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Thursday morning to discuss the difficult scenarios that have arisen from scheduling the spring collections here around the anniversary of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. While no conclusive recommendation was drawn, sources close to the dealings said that its participants are making inquiries to the organizers of the Premiere Vision textile trade show in Paris and London Fashion Week about moving back on the calendar.
While the idea of asking the European shows to accommodate American scheduling conflicts has been raised before, and promptly laughed off, the group is hoping to make some headway with the power of Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, who the magazine confirmed was involved in Thursday’s meeting.
Peter Arnold, executive director of the CFDA, would not discuss the alternatives that were presented at the meeting, although he did say that “it was a natural acknowledgement of Sept. 11 as a significant issue that we discussed what could and couldn’t happen that day.”
As reported, the proposed dates for the spring 2003 collections in New York is Sept. 8-14. In London, the shows are tentatively scheduled from Sept. 15-20, while PV — an important fabric resource for designers in formulating the following season’s collection — is scheduled from Sept. 19 to 21 in Paris. One idea that has been floated by several top designers is to schedule shows starting Sept. 12, although that would involve an almost equally divisive conflict with planning shows around Yom Kippur on Sept. 15-16. Moving to the following week would require a seismic shift on the parts of London, Milan and Paris.
Meanwhile, the CFDA separately announced on Thursday that the organization has elected 23 new designers to its membership, bringing its ranks to 258 designers. Among the new members are several designers who have been involved in the industry for many years but have recently come back into the news or started new lines, like Stephen Burrows and Isabel Toledo. The organization has also extended its reach to include fur specialist Dennis Basso, bridal designers Reem Acra and Monique Lhuillier and textile designers like Howard Silver of Jasco Fabrics.
New women’s sportswear members are Liz Collins, Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli of Bruce, Rozae Nichols, William Reid and Alice Roi. Two recent hires at establishment houses — Lars Nilsson of Bill Blass and Charles Nolan from Anne Klein — also have joined the CFDA ranks.
From the West Coast, David Cardona and Henry Duarte have also been elected as members. Tom Walko is the only new representative of the men’s industry, while the accessories category is taking in five new members: Edmundo Castillo, Larry Leight of Oliver Peoples, Robert Marc, Paul Morelli and Richard Stark of Chrome Hearts.