EXTE PROMOTES SCOGNAMIGLIO
Byline: Alessandra Ilari
MILAN — After four seasons of Antonio Berardi’s trashy fairies and punk queens, Exte has decided to take a fashion detour, handing the creative reigns over to Vincenzo Scognamiglio.
Scognamiglio, who joined the company as brand manager three months ago, will oversee an international design team of 20, starting with the fall 2002 collection.
The move is part of a three-year strategy to accelerate the evolution of Exte by changing the design direction, revising its distribution and seriously targeting the U.S market. To spearhead the project, parent company IT Holding tapped Francesco Lampronti as general manager, prompted by his prior managerial posts at Calvin Klein Europe and Emanuel Ungaro.
To boost the brand’s annual volume of $50 million, the current management will also concentrate more efforts on its accessories division.
Parting from a marquee name, Exte decided to forge a more practical design identity than some of Berardi’s wacky numbers, charged with high-wattage scoops and slits. His first effort for Exte was its fall 2000 women’s collection, while he had also tried his hand at men’s wear for the first time for summer 2002.
“Exte is a concept brand and we feel that it shouldn’t be associated with a designer,” said Lampronti. “We see the collections as clothes for everyday use that are essential and sensual.”
The 37-year-old Scognamiglio joined Exte three months ago after holding posts at Calvin Klein, both in New York and in Milan, and at Ralph Lauren. His task is to filter and coordinate the ideas coming from the company’s design team.
“We’re not inventing a new dress code, but we’re focusing on separates that are versatile and elegant, but not invasive,” Scognamiglio said. “The collection is structured and studied in a nonchalant way.”
At the same time, IT Holding has named Massimo Brunelli as a counselor to its board. Previously, Brunelli was chief financial officer at Telecom Italia, a telecommunications conglomerate, and will carry out general financial duties for the luxury goods and apparel company.