TOP NOTES

KIEHL’S CORNER: Kiehl’s Since 1851 is set to open a 555-square-foot corner in Paris’s The Bon Marche department store by April 2002. The brand already is sold in Paris’s hip concept store Colette. It also is expanding its retail presence in the U.S.; this week, it opened a 400-square-foot outpost at Chicago’s Saks Fifth Avenue. The Chicago location, designed like the brand’s freestanding San Francisco store, features utilitarian stainless steel units, a drop tin ceiling with vintage artifacts and photographs. The Chicago Saks location marks the first store-in-store for Kiehl’s.

AUCOIN TO BENDEL’S: Kevyn Aucoin is going retail and has chosen his first launch door: Henri Bendel, in which he will merchandise the three makeup products that previously were only available on his Web site. He will make a two-hour appearance at the store from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. next Thursday. Ed Burstell, Bendel’s vice president and general merchandise manager, said a percentage of sales will go to charity. In addition, anyone who spends $1,000 on Aucoin’s big makeup box will get to attend a special luncheon with the line’s founder.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Pat McGrath is a superstar makeup consultant behind the scenes, but she’s far from a household name. That all changed last Friday, when she led a 15-artist team through two days of makeover sessions to promote the Giorgio Armani color line at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. “I’m meeting all the ladies,” said a beaming McGrath, who drew 300 bookings on each day and set a sales record. While no one would comment on the proceeds, sources indicate that the two-day event rang up $55,000, well in excess of the expected $40,000.
“They set a new record for the largest beauty event of its kind,” said Deborah Walters, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of Saks. “Pat McGrath has such a magnetic personality. We saw numerous mother and daughter combinations. The line is doing very well.”

CYBER SHUTDOWN: French hypermarket Carrefour has taken down its online beauty boutique, carrefourbeaute.com. The Web site, which was launched 12 months ago, sold mass and mid-tier brands, including Caudalie, Neutrogena, L’Oreal Paris and Nivea. Carrefour will continue selling mass products on its hypermarket Web site, ooshop.com; parapharmacy brands, meanwhile, will only be sold in-store.

MARIONNAUD MOVES: Parfumeries Marionnaud is back on the acquisition trail. It has snapped up the 12-door Odylia chain, which has locations in the Paris region, for an undisclosed sum. The acquisition will be effective Jan. 2, 2002. Odylia generates annual sales of more than $13.5 million, converted from the French franc at current exchange rates, according to Marionnaud in a statement.
Marionnaud also has added four perfumeries located outside of Paris to its roster. With 841 stores, it claims to be Europe’s biggest perfumery chain in terms of doors. In other company news, Austrian authorities have approved Marionnaud’s takeover of the 35-door Holzer perfumery chain, the company said. In other news, Marionnaud is adding a little blue blood to draw attention. It has signed on Charlotte Casiraghi, 15, the daughter of Princess Caroline of Monaco, and her friend Valentine Pozzo Di Borgo, 17, to represent the “Marionnaud Parfumeries Team” at equestrian competitions through 2002. Princess Caroline’s spokeswoman would not comment on the deal.

L’OREAL CLOSURE: L’Oreal will close a factory in Pilar, Argentina, by June 2002, the company said. The move is part of the firm’s reorganization plan, which includes making its facilities more technologically specialized.

CLINIQUE’S FACE TIME: Clinique will celebrate the many faces of beauty with The Beauty of Being You, a photographic exhibit and makeup event which will be on display at Clinique counters nationwide beginning next month. Shot by fine arts photographer Sandi Fellman, the photographs feature inspiring women. They include dancer Leila Fazel; Carolyn Kaelin, M.D., a leader in breast cancer recovery; news anchor Nancy Loo, and firefighter Caroline Paul. During The Beauty of Being You event, individual consultations will be offered, and each customer will receive a gift of either a deluxe-size Rinse Off Foaming Cleanser or Wash Away Gel Cleanser, plus a full-size Moisture Surge Lipstick SPF 15 in Sweet Mocha.
The event starts in January at Dillard’s doors in Las Vegas, Phoenix and Tucson and at New York and Philadelphia Macy’s stores and travels across the U.S. before wrapping up in July at Gottschalks doors in San Francisco.

AVEDA HONORED: Aveda was one of three companies honored Dec. 10 by the National Recycling Coalition with its Recycling Works Recognition Award. According to the NRC, Aveda was chosen because it works with its suppliers to develop and use environmentally preferable packaging materials for its products, building materials for its retail stores and printed materials for its marketing campaigns. In addition, Aveda was the first in its industry to use 50 percent post-consumer HDPE in its hair care bottles and recycles more than 95 percent of its manufacturing waste.

PUMP PRIMING: Crown Cork & Seal Co., Inc. has signed a deal to sell its fragrance pump manufacturing business located in Thomaston, Conn., to Rexam PLC for approximately $107 million, subject to a net asset adjustment.
The Thomaston plant is one of nine facilities operated by Crown’s Risdon-AMS cosmetics packaging subsidiary. For the 12 months ended Oct. 31, total revenues for the business were approximately $55 million and EBITDA was approximately $16 million.

TRES STYLED: Tresemme Hydrology, a line of shampoo and conditioners launched last year by Alberto-Culver, is expanding into the styling category. The moisture-focused line, Hydrology Styling, includes a Smooth & Shine Moisture Pomade, Controlling Moisture Hair spray, Boosting Moisture Mousse, Contouring Moisture Gel and De-Frizzing Moisture Gel. Products will be available in mass outlets in February and will retail for $3.49.

MOISTURE QUEST: To meet the needs of “73 percent of women who say they have damaged hair,” according to Procter & Gamble research, Pantene is launching a Daily Moisture Renewal Shampoo and Conditioner system. Its Pro-Vitamin formula, the company says, is designed to “insulate every strand of hair to help prevent future moisture loss.” Pantene Daily Moisture Renewal Shampoo and Conditioner launches in mass retail outlets in March and will retail for $4.30.

FIVE IS ALIVE: VO5 has tweaked its line of Hot Oil Treatments to enhance its low penetration of 2 percent. Instructions on boxes have been reiterated to explain that Hot Oil should be used prior to shampooing, rather than after a shampoo. Different formulations have been designed to meet the needs of various hair types, too. There’s volumizing, smoothing, moisturizing, strengthening and color-keeper stockkeeping units now available. Small changes to packaging, such as font and background color, have been added, and now boxes feature a tube in a glass to show how to heat the Hot Oil. The new sku’s launch in January for retail in mass outlets in February and will sell for $3.29.

POINT, CLICK, POOF: The “Try It On Studio” at Clairol.com takes the guesswork out of choosing the right hair color and hairstyle by allowing users to see themselves in specific brands of hair color and styles.The Web site offers more than 590 different shades of hair color and 159 hairstyles, including options for men. Users can view their hair color and style selections on either an uploaded image of themselves or on one of the hundreds of models available in the Clairol.com model pool. A full range of ages, races, ethnic backgrounds and genders are included in the pool.

DOVE RESTAGES NUTRIUM: As a result of a new technology, which includes the addition of Nutrium Beads, Dove Nutrium has been repackaged from its signature dual-chamber form to a single-chamber form. The new product is available on store shelves now. The product was originally packaged in a dual chamber to help keep the moisturizing cleanser separated from the body lotion before use. To alert Nutrium users of the change, the new packaging will feature a clear cap shrink band stating “New Easy Form.” Dove Nutrium with Nutrient Beads will be available in mass retail outlets in an 8-oz. and a 12-oz. package, with a suggested retail price of $3.99 and $5.99, respectively.

ROUND TWO: Tiffany & Co. will be adding its second limited-edition crystal perfume flacon to its collection. The newest version, in the shape of a pomegranate, features a sterling silver stopper inspired by an original pomegranate design from the Tiffany Archives and hand-engraved with Tiffany & Co. 925. The 1-oz. flacon retails for $350 and is available at Tiffany & Co. locations worldwide, with the exception of Japan.

SCENTUAL STUFF: Fans of British lingerie line Agent Provocateur no longer have to trek to its only U.S. location on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles to get the line’s fragrance. As of last month, the eau de parfum as well as its ancillary items — scented cream, scented tissues and candles — can be found at Zitomers, Bigelows, Bigelows at Jeffrey, Scarlett and online at Agentprovocateur.com. Prices range from $15 for Hanky Panky tissues to $89 for a 100-ml. eau de parfum.

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