PARIS — Some designers love to create dramatic sets and express themselves with outrageous looks that will never really fly on the boulevards. But not Oscar de la Renta — such shenanigans are not for him. Instead, he believes in the primacy of the client, and he expresses this view with handsome clothes just right for his high-profile Ladies, infused with elegance and, often, a certain nonchalance. In his spring couture collection for Balmain, for instance, he brought back the spring coat and did smart spectator suits. Here, a mixed version. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 6.

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