FRENCH UNITY: Hachette Filipacchi Medias has agreed to take a 42 percent stake in Marie Claire Group, relieving L’Oreal SA of its minority stake and forging an unusual alliance between competitors. HFM publishes Elle, which is a weekly in France. The monthly Marie Claire is one of its competitors.
Under the accord announced Thursday, Marie-Laure Prouvost, Evelyne Prouvost and her husband, Nicholas Barry, will maintain a controlling 58 percent stake in Marie Claire Group. According to an HFM statement, the businesses of the Marie Claire Group, which comprises nine titles, including Cosmopolitan, will remain independent from those of HFM.
The agreement concludes a months-long drama involving ownership of Marie Claire. Last December, L’Oreal blocked the sale to HFM of the 17 percent stake held by the Prouvost’s half-sister, Donatienne de Montmort. Until Thursday’s announcement, L’Oreal held a 49 percent stake.
DONNA’S WORLD: Woman to Woman is growing up. Donna Karan’s semiannual magazine, which normally is 12 to 14 pages, has grown to 82 pages this spring. Some 300,000 copies will be distributed at Karan’s Collection show next Friday, as well as through retail accounts and the firm’s mailing list.
The issue includes a story about Christina Ong’s hotel, Parrot Cay in Turks & Caicos; a letter from Karan about what inspired her spring Collection; behind-the-scenes shots from her spring fashion show; photographs from the spring ad campaign that was shot in Vietnam, and an interview with Jeremy Irons, who stars in the campaign.
“We’re not viewing this as a stand-alone magazine, and we won’t sell ads to Mercedes Benz, but it takes marketing communication to the next level. We needed to build a vehicle for Donna to communicate in a high-end luxury way,” said Trey Laird, executive vice president of imaging and creative services at Donna Karan International.
NEW BLOOD: The world’s major cities will have Another magazine this fall, literally. The team behind the London-based magazine Dazed & Confused plans to launch Another, a biannual fashion title for women and men in September. The editor will be Katy England in London while the art director will be Alex Wiederin of A&R Media in New York. The magazine will be 320 pages, with 120 pages of fashion photos and a 32-page, half-sized literary magazine. The publishers plan a print run of 110,000 copies per issue as well as 10,000 limited-edition hardback copies.
MIDDLETON MOVES ON: William Middleton has resigned his post as fashion features director at Harper’s Bazaar. He had held the post for a year. Middleton said he plans to explore new opportunities.
Prior to joining HB, Middleton was a freelancer and contributing editor to W. From 1995 to 1998, Middleton served as Paris bureau chief for W and Women’s Wear Daily.
Kristina Zimbalist, HB’s fashion features editor, will direct all fashion features.
NOT TALKING: Tina Brown’s attempt to link Calvin Klein’s company and the Mafia 20 years ago in a story in the March Talk won’t give publisher Ron Galotti any gray hair. Klein has never advertised in the magazine, so there won’t be any canceled schedules to deal with.
In the Talk story, journalist Wayne Barrett writes that in the Eighties, Klein’s company did business with a mob connected jobber, Venero Mangano — known as “Benny Eggs” — who in 1993 was found guilty of racketeering. He’s currently in federal prison.
The story claims that Mangano owned several companies in the garment industry, and that FBI agents estimated Klein had done roughly $9 million worth of jeans business with the Mangano companies over an 11-year period. The story said one of Mangano’s wholesalers, M&J Enterprises, purchased jeans from Klein and sold them to “Korvettes, T.J. Maxx and Marshalls.”
Last May, Klein sued the The Warnaco Group, which has the Calvin Klein Jeans license, over trademark infringement and directing large volume sales of full-price merchandise to off-price warehouses such as Costco, Sam’s Club and BJ’s. The two parties settled last month, and Warnaco retained the CK Jeans license until 2044.
According to Robert B. Wallace, editorial director of Talk: “Whatever the time frame, it showed there was a pattern to this company to getting goods out to discounted stores…Calvin was given every opportunity to speak and he declined.”
Klein declined comment Thursday.
UPS AND DOWNS: The apparel and accessories category got off to a fast start this year. According to Publishers Information Bureau, apparel and accessories ad revenues in January leaped 39.9 percent to $33.7 million. However, toiletries and cosmetics ad revenues took a hit for the month, and were off 9.5 percent to $51.1 million, according to PIB.
“LOVE BOAT” REVISITED: Fashions of the Times, which comes out Sunday, Feb. 25, carries the theme, “The Inside Issue.” There’s a feature by Julia Szabo on how the TV show, “The Love Boat,” helped propel the careers of Halston, Gloria Vanderbilt, Bob Mackie and Geoffrey Beene, who all made guest appearances from “Planet Style” on the show. In one photograph [with the actual script], Vanderbilt is shown on the set wearing a mink coat. Gopher says, “Miss Vanderbilt, I am such a big fan of yours. I don’t have my autograph book, but would you mind signing the back pocket of my trousers? [All laugh; Vanderbilt walks off].
Suzy Menkes writes a story on how she gets her scoops and there’s a piece about how Norell perfume is still number one for rich, WASPy women, but they have to buy it at Kmart.
The issue, which has 118 ad pages, is up 15 percent from a year. New advertisers include Christina Perrin, Steve Madden, Henri Bendel and Helmut Lang.
In addition, the Times Magazine plans to debut the first of four “Special Reports” on Sunday, March 11. These will be back-of-the book sections averaging about 20 pages devoted to fashion, style, design, beauty food and living.
TSE FOCUSED: The New Yorker’s 76th anniversary double issue, which hits newsstands Monday, will include a tribute to Visionaire, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary. The 16-page retrospective, which was created exclusively for The New Yorker, is sponsored by Tse.
The section features the work of Dutch photographers Annuschka Bloomers and Niels Schumm and highlights such models as Stella Tennant, Lucy de la Falaise and Marlin Richards, son of Keith Richards. It also describes the contributions of top fashion image makers and designers such as Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld, Nan Goldin and Mario Testino.
24/7 FASHION: The MetroChannel’s Full Frontal Fashion returns this month to cover New York’s fashion shows. Metro will preempt all its regular programming from Thursday, Feb. 8 through Sunday, Feb. 18, dedicating the entire channel to airing 11 days and over 250 hours of fashion coverage. New special correspondents include Hal Rubenstein, fashion features director of In Style magazine; Andre Leon Talley, editor at large at Vogue, and celebrity photographer Patrick McMullan. One of the new features is a “Sketch to Runway” series that will profile designers Carolina Herrera, Betsey Johnson, Anand Jon and Craig Natiello from Halston.
BORN FOR THE BEAT: Casey Johnson, the eldest daughter of Sale and Woody Johnson of the Johnson & Johnson beauty empire, is joining the family industry, sort of. The 21-year-old Johnson, who most recently worked at Lizzie Grubman & Peggy Siegal Public Relations, has joined Manhattan File as associate beauty editor.
“I’ve always been cognizant of both beauty and health trends as it’s part of my family heritage,” said Johnson, who cites her grandmother, Betty Johnson, as her biggest beauty influence because of her life-long skin protection advice.
“But I also tried on my mother’s lip liner when I was two, so I guess you could call me an early adopter,” she said.
FASHIONABLE MOVES: Andy Cowles has been named creative director of Mademoiselle. He succeeds Anna Starr, who left the magazine. Most recently, Cowles has served as a consultant art director for the Sunday Magazine of The News of the World, and has also worked for Sky, Q Magazines, new Woman (U.K. edition), Just Seventeen, Elle Decoration and Mojo. He plans to relocate from London to New York.
Tracy Taylor has been named fashion editor of Marie Claire. She succeeds Jennifer Smith, who joined Lucky. For the past two years, Taylor has been a freelance fashion editor, and before that was the fashion editor at Details magazine from 1996-1998.
Jessica Lustig has joined Allure magazine as deputy editor/features editor. Most recently she was a senior editor of New York magazine, where she edited the Gotham, Scene and Style pages.