LOUIS FERAUD: Simplicity isn’t a word in Yvan Mispelaere’s design vocabulary. When faced with the decision, on his second couture outing for Feraud, of whether to rein in his wild imagination or pile on a few more frills and furbelows, he opted for the latter. In the program notes, Mispelaere cited a panoply of divergent inspirations, ranging from “African dandyism” and Surrealism to the “truncated prose of William Burroughs.” Truncated, indeed — with a dash of Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga’s hot designer, thrown in for good measure. That influence was evident in the Mispelaere’s lingerie looks, which were ultimately the best of the show. Otherwise, the deconstructed silhouettes were overwrought and even clown-like in the designer’s bubble gum palette and penchant for strange collage.
HANAE MORI: Showing in the intimate setting of her Place de l’Alma atelier, Hanae Mori used bolts of silk gauze, tulle, organza and sheer silk to create an airy summer couture collection. Traditional skirt and pantsuits were fastened with rhinestone safety pins, while some had diamond cutouts on the back or sleeve. Muslin dresses were light and floaty, with lace and subtle embroidery. Although Mori mostly stuck to a muted palette, she showed a smattering of Japanese kimono print fabrics, created exclusively for the house. Those bright dresses, printed with either bamboo or her signature butterfly motifs, rounded out this ethereal show.
FRANCK SORBIER: Young Paris couturier Franck Sorbier likes his presentations to be cute and endearing. Showing in the gilt salons of the newly refurbished Hotel Meurice, he kicked off the show with a group of young girls who boisterously distributed the program — and later threw in a model walking a dog. Sorbier’s forte is his flowing georgette dresses with dramatic, sculpted peplum bustiers. In fact, the designer showed these looks only for evening, 18 of them in all, which were pretty in a fairytale kind of way, especially those in tulle.