GILLES LE RETOUR

Why do a runway show when you can pack ’em in with a groovy gallery party? That’s what Gilles Dufour did Monday to celebrate his first signature collection, based on fetching knitwear, interspersed with jersey blazers, dresses and skirts, as well as a handful of sexy leather pieces. Dufour, who used to design the ready-to-wear at Balmain, is a pro with knits. He gave cashmere or merino sweaters a touch of personality by weaving them in colorful harlequin designs or strategically slashing them “to reveal Madame’s tattoo.” Dufour commissioned Felix Larher to photograph friends and personalities wearing his designs, including Bella Freud, Lou Doillon, Dolores Chaplin and his two captivating design assistants Olympia Le-Tan and Aurore Daerden, and displayed them in the gallery. “I didn’t want anything too aggressive,” explained Dufour. “It’s very colorful, a little pretty, and a little rough.”