FASHION WEEK DOES ITS MAKEUP
Byline: Julie Naughton / With contributions from Andrea M. Grossman
NEW YORK — The loose alliance between fashion and beauty is now a full-blown marriage.
At last season’s ready-to-wear collections, cosmetics manufacturers took a deeper role in fashion, even to the point of bankrolling runway shows.
This season, hair manufacturers and stylists also stepped up to the plate, providing expertise and personnel.
While hip New York salon Bumble and bumble has been involved with the shows for a few seasons, the fall shows featured several other big hair names — notably, Procter and Gamble’s Physique and Vidal Sassoon brands and salon brand Paul Mitchell, with 10 shows including Alice Roi, Bisou Bisou and Paula Hian.
Redken, involved with styling the James Purcell show for several seasons, this year added product goodie bags, hairdresser Sam Villa and a staff of eight stylists to the mix at the Margie Tsai show.
Bumble artists did 10 shows, including Vivienne Tam, Custo Barcelona and ORFI — and its products certainly got around: Stylist Guido was seen making liberal use of its Surf Spray at the Marc Jacobs show. Salons also got into the act, with Arrojo Cutler stylists taking on the Ford Fashion in Focus show Sunday and Laurent Dufourg of the Laurent D. salons doing Catherine Malandrino Wednesday.
That’s not to say, however, that cosmetics vendors and suppliers are resting on their laurels. In fact, Sephora pulled off a first Thursday: the first beauty runway show, featuring the fall collections of 16 cosmetics brands.
Shiseido completely underwrote the costs for the Bruce show, a tradition it began last fall with Susan Cianciolo. Bobbi Brown products were handed out as favors at the Halston and Margie Tsai shows, where Brown did the makeup; Stila products appeared on chairs at the Cynthia Steffe show, where founder Jeanine Lobell did the makeup, and Defile made up sausage-like rolls of its newest cosmetics for showgoers at Alice Roi, Mark Montano and Shin Choi. Bourjois artists and Delux Beauty Jillian Fink-Dempsey also worked at shows, while Crabtree and Evelyn provided favors for the Donald Deal show and Anna Sui put bags full of her own cosmetics on chairs. And Donna Karan Cosmetics’ goodie bags for today’s showgoers sound especially tempting: a sneak peek of its new Cashmere Mist Hand Conditioning Creme, launching in May, along with Cashmere Mist body lotion, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner and DK Formula Cleanser.
MAC — with some of the hardest-working show artists in the business — sent its Pro Team to 25 shows, as well as stuffing goodie bags for Chaiken, Peter Som, Rebecca Taylor, Richard Tyler and Douglas Hannant.
When MAC’s staffers weren’t working, they were partying. But even when they were partying, they were working. At their party Monday night at Tuscan Steak, the newest ad campaign for Viva Glam, featuring L’il Kim and Mary J. Blige, was unveiled to a crowd that included Leonard and Evelyn Lauder and MAC president John Demsey. “We’ll have time to rest when it’s all over — that is, when the other cities are all over,” said Gordon Espinet, MAC’s executive director of makeup artistry. He still has Paris, Milan and London to think about.
And the hair and makeup pros weren’t the only ones backstage: It was hard to move in the prep areas with all of the beauty editors and TV reporters scrambling for interviews about the latest beauty trends. A few enterprising souls even tried to invoke the titles of obscure publications to get backstage. When one man claimed to be from Montreal Music Style magazine to get backstage at the Oscar de la Renta show, the gatekeeper promptly turned a deaf ear.
“I’m from Canada — I’d have heard of it,” she said firmly.
Chalk it all up to the growing interdependence of the fashion and beauty worlds, a trend that is sure to continue. “They’ve always been important to one another, but it is especially apparent this season how much they mix,” said Betsy Olum, senior vice president of marketing for Sephora and Sephora.com.
And judging from the hair at the fall 2001 runway shows, hair products manufacturers made a good investment by providing products and artists for this season’s collection — in fact, many will make their money back in product sales this fall.
Much of the hair was bone-straight, which bodes well for fall sales of straightening balms, thickening sprays, molding muds, shine drops and hair sprays — all of which were seen in excessive quantities backstage. Pin-straight, shoulder length hair ruled the runway at Carolina Herrera, where Serge Normant did straight-ahead locks; at Vivienne Tam, where Bumble and bumble’s Ward employed Bumble Styling Spray, Thickening Spray and a flat iron to straighten things out, and at the Shiseido-sponsored Bruce show, where the Vidal Sassoon team pumped quantities of VS Thickening Spray into the hair. The straight story was also seen at Oscar de la Renta, where Jimmy Paul did deep side parts and straightened the hair with Clinique hair products and a flat iron. That was also the deal at Michael Kors, styled by Orlando Pita.
Even the updos were pretty and clean — and hard to achieve without product. At Chaiken, Peter Gray for Vidal Sassoon volumized the crown area a bit, but pulled the rest of the hair back into sleek, shiny ponytails. Richard Dalton, who headed up the Paul Mitchell Design Team at Alice Roi, created Alice-in-Wonderland-goes-to-the-big-city looks for Roi’s Huntress collection — a combination of tightly controlled styles that were half knotted ponytail, half braid. For the non-hair endowed, bone-straight hair extensions filled things out. Often, however, they were in color combinations not seen in nature — like Betsey Johnson’s fuschia fright wigs and BCBG Max Azria’s brown and blonde combinations — which saved things from being too girly-pretty.
Peter Grey, Vidal Sassoon’s head editorial stylist, chose boyish yet feminine styles for Narciso Rodriguez. To go along with Rodriguez’s high collars and long, slim silhouettes, Grey textured and slicked back hair for Fifties-era style. He aimed for “rocker boys who comb their hair back with grease, a little bit androgynous but more of a boyish feminine look.” VS Sassoon’s Molding Clay, which was included in gift bags at the show, helped keep longer locks in place. And stylist Danilo for P&G’s Physique styled heads for many shows, including Christina Perrin, where he curled long hair with large tins and then folded the volumized strands under, to create a “glamorous Liz Taylor style with lots of volume.”
Backstage at Diane Von Furstenberg, Sally Hershberger for John Frieda led a team of stylists to follow her “shorter hair looks better anyway” mantra. Hershberger made models’ long hair disappear by tucking and pinning manes flat against the head. John Frieda products such as Funky Chunky and Spun Gold added texture to hair, while Crystal Clear hair spray kept styles in place.
But still, there were those that caught a wave. At Halston, Ron Braso for Frederic Fekkai created lush, full waves, while Redken’s artists did crimped coifs at Margie Tsai. Arguably the most outrageous hair was at Catherine Malandrino, where stylist Dufourg used hair extensions, sponges, styling wax and hair spray to sculpt Eighties-inspired Mohawks.
“For fall, hair spray is your friend,” he laughed.
And two words easily sum up fall cosmetics: black eyeliner. It was thick in a cat-eye effect — as at Alice Roi, where Justin Henry for Defile Cosmetics used black eyeliner and two Defile shadows: Glitterati, a cobalt blue, and Inspire, a deep, iridescent green, and at Douglas Hannant, where MAC’s Frances Hathaway lined outside the eyes and filled in with a coppery MAC powder. “It’s empowered and deliberate, but not pretty,” Hathaway explained. At BCBG Max Azria, Yasou Yoskikawa also took a shot at the cat-eye look, using Christian Dior cake eyeliner, as did MAC’s Espinet at Catherine Malandrino.
Dick Page took an Eighties-punk chick approach at Marc Jacobs, where he heavily outlined eyes with a black eye pencil and smeared eye grease on lids. “It’s an aggressive, rough eye,” he said. “It complements the clothes.” Mark Carrasquillo, who did strong, black-rimmed eyes at Vivienne Tam, was also inspired by rock ‘n’ roll: “All this black eyeliner reminds me of an early Marianne Faithful look,” he said. Black eyeliner got a little more ladylike at Oscar de la Renta, where Tom Pecheux created a strong, feminine line and kept lips beigy-pink.
Deep, murky eye shadows are also a good bet for fall. As her newest daughter, Wallace, slept contentedly nearby, Lobell blended shades of hunter green, plum and brown from her new fall shade palette for Stila. MAC’s Tracey Murphy kept eyes smoky at Badgley Mischka, using Tree Bark eye shadow, a deep burgundy-brown. Stila’s Lobell also took to the dark side at Diane Von Furstenberg, with deep, smoky eyes paired with plum lips.
Lips seemed to fall into two categories: go-to-the-matte red, or completely nude and supported by a strong, smoky eye. The red-lip brigade included Justin Henry for Defile at Mark Montano, Ashley Ward for MAC at Chaiken, Charlie Green for Betsey Johnson and Curtis Phelps for Bobbi Brown at Donald Deal. Those supporting the go-naked look were just as widespread, including Page at the Michael Kors show and Brown at the Halston show, who used Brown Berry Artstick and Toast Cream Lip Gloss for a soft, creamy taupe lip. Faces were mostly natural, with a matte, velvet effect, and cheeks were either left nude or accented with peach or rose blush.
But despite the seriousness with which the beauty industry is following runway trends lately, uber makeup artist Pecheux — who created the makeup looks this season at Oscar de la Renta, Kenneth Cole and Ralph Lauren, among others — notes that it’s important to remember that runway shows are just that: shows.
“When I’m doing a look, I’m thinking about whether it’s right for the model and right for the clothes she’s wearing in that show,” he said. Take for instance the bright red lips he did at the Prada show in Milan last season. While they were widely copied and credited with “the return of the red lip,” he insists that he doesn’t create his runway looks with trends in mind. “I’ve been doing makeup for 16 years,” said Pecheux, who has just finished revamping Shiseido’s The Makeup collection. “My objective is to make the girls feel gorgeous and sexy, not say what the most definitive color of next season is.”