A LUXE FEAST AT SALON SHOW
Byline: Karyn Monget
PARIS — However the dice were rolled, there were enough fashion trends for what a number of French spectators called “la grande bouffe.”
Whether it was the lady, the ingenue, or the tramp, one main course was served up at the big feast at the Salon International de la Lingerie: luxe looks with a touch of whimsy that satisfied the modern romantic who watches TV sit-coms like “Friends” and “Ally McBeal,” as well unbridled opulence for Old World romantics who enjoy vintage flicks such as “Casablanca,” “An Affair to Remember,” and “It Happened One Night.”
There were also lots of midriff treats for the Britney Spears wannabes, Roman-inspired fur-trimmed togas and robes for the “Gladiator” enthusiast, seamless Santoni-knit go-go dresses with cut-out treatments reminiscent of Rudi Gernrich and lavishly embellished long and short layered sheer sleepwear a la Isadora Duncan.
Despite the prominence of beautifully ornate and sexy lace bras and panties — a majority of which were merchandised underneath sheer tops, robes and pants — sleepwear stole the spotlight with a a wide range of feminine, seductive looks.
Europeans are also getting into the activewear-inspired mode, and French TV in particular has been more focused on “le sport Americain,” showing more scenarios like jogging, aerobics and weight lifting. This was reflected in allover seamless Santoni garments at the show, such as knit-in colorblock crop tops and shorts, bodysuits and clean-looking bras that had a look of sports bras.
Directional trends included:
Fabrics were lustrous with a return to shine, sometimes lacquered.
Ultraluxe sleepwear in rich colors and textures, especially pleating and laces.
Allover seamless Santoni knits featured more decorative elements, such as metallic yarns for engineered patterns or placed jewels on necklines. There were lots of variegated mesh, openwork patterns and lace textures for visual interest.
Sheers still rule, but this time with pretty, strategically placed patterns.
Ideas for the teen market were strong, such as miniprints, bright colors and lots of mixing and matching of prints with solids, colors and layering.
Iris LeBron, fashion director of intimate apparel, swimwear and activewear at DuPont, observed, “The overall message was that intimate apparel is once again fun, feminine and very sexy. Colors were expressive and prominent in most lines, ranging from vivid reds and oranges and gold, to rich purples, lavendars and blue. Lace and embroideries returned in all of their glory in both graphic and floral patterns.”