LAUDER INCOME: The salaries and bonuses of The Estee Lauder Cos. Inc.’s top two executives took divergent courses during the company’s 2001 fiscal year, which ended on June 30. Chairman Leonard Lauder’s bonus was off by roughly 66 percent, to $1.7 million, and his salary dropped about 6 percent, to $1.8 million. According to the company, this was due to Lauder’s relinquishment of his chief executive officer title in January 2000 to Fred Langhammer.
President and ceo Langhammer received a 5 percent raise, to $2 million, and his bonus was up almost 17 percent, to $2.8 million, according to a proxy statement filed by the company with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission. Bonuses are tied to the company’s net earnings and how they compared in relation to competitors. In the previous year, Langhammer, 57, received a $2.4 million bonus and a $1.9 million salary. Lauder had a bonus of $4.9 million and was paid $1.9 million last year. Lauder, 68, held the ceo post for the first half of the 2000 fiscal year. The company’s net sales increased 6 percent, to $4.61 billion, during fiscal 2001.

ROBERTET FIGURES: French fragrance and flavors supplier Robertet announced its first-half net profits were up 7.7 percent, to $7.5 million, on sales up 17.5 percent, to $98.6 million, year-on-year. All figures have been converted from the euro at current exchange rates. The first six months of 2001 were particularly buoyant for the firm, due to strong performances in its primary materials, fragrance composition and flavors departments, the company said in a release. Robertet is on course to meet its sales objectives of $186 million and to post an increase in net profits for the year, said Philippe Maubert, president of the company’s board of directors.

CASE PROMOTED: Maureen Case, most recently vice president of marketing at Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, has been named senior vice president of global marketing/marketing services, effective immediately. She reports to Rochelle Bloom, president.

GRES SALE: Escada Beaute Group has sold Parfums Gres to Silvio Denz, who has created a new company called Parfums Gres SA. Terms of the deal were not disclosed. Escada Beaute sold Gres to concentrate on Escada-branded projects, according to Richard Simonin, chief executive officer of Escada Beaute and board member of the Escada Group. Denz, who will serve as president of Gres SA, is also president and owner of Parfums de Paris, a fragrance distributor. Best-selling fragrances at Gres, which was acquired by Escada Beaute executives in 1997, include Cabochard and Cabotine. A new Gres fragrance is slated for 2002. Escada Beaute registered sales last year of $82 million at current exchange rates.

RECONSTRUCTING KENZO: Parfums Kenzo is giving its 10-year-old men’s scent, Kenzo Pour Homme, a makeover. The LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand is reworking the fragrance’s packaging and advertising, but leaving the original juice unchanged. The scent’s new bottle, designed by Philippe Dapsanse of Tipi, is like a stick of bamboo that curves slightly. So is the scent’s new outer packaging by Research Studios.
The new Kenzo Pour Homme is due out in the middle of October, alongside its new print and TV advertising. The fragrance comes in 100-, 50- and 30-ml. eau de toilette sprays that will retail for $51, $36 and $27, respectively.

INTER PARFUMS NUMBERS: Inter Parfums registered first-half consolidated sales of $43 million, up 42 percent over the same period last year. All dollar figures are converted from the euro at current exchange rates. At constant group structure and exchange rates, its sales would have grown by 36.5 percent. Operating profits grew by 52 percent, to $6.1 million, in the period. Net profits grew by 45 percent, to $3.9 million. Inter Parfums said in a statement that the launch of the new Celine fragrances, which are due out in October, should boost sales in the fourth quarter. Inter Parfums said that given its six-month turnout, it expects to surpass its full-year sales forecast of $78 million and its expectations for $6.7 million in net profits.

C IS FOR COLOR: Schwarzkopf Professional has added Vitamin C to its Igora Royal Permanent Hair Color. The new ingredient helps color stay longer, without damaging the hair, and gives complete coverage to gray hair, according to the company. The cream base of the product is formulated with a low amount of ammonia and is designed to restructure the hair while coloring. Igora Royal with Vitamin C is available in 98 intermixable shades at hair salons nationwide.

SMACKERS GIFT SETS: Bonne Bell has launched Smackers Gift Sets for the holidays. The Heart and Star Holiday Keepsake Boxes retail for $4.75 and contain three limited-edition Lip Smacker flavors. The Keepsake Memory Box, retailing for $7.95, comes with all six of the Lip Smackers flavors. The box converts to a pop-up frame and has a drawer to store trinkets. Fashion Passion Bags are available in boxy berry and spotted strawberry. In the bag are four new products: a moisturizing lip balm, a shimmer shadow stick for eye and face, glimmer dust for the face and body and a glitter lip gloss. These holiday sets will be available beginning in November at mass and drug stores nationwide.

FASHION FIX: L’Oreal Professional will lend a hand to frazzled fashionistas during Paris Fashion Week, which kicks off today and runs through Oct. 13. The hair care firm will run an improvised salon in the Carrousel du Louvre, where many fashion shows are held. It will give people the opportunity to touch up their ‘dos in-between shows. Manned by two hairdressers, the Espace Coiffure will offer hairstyling by appointment only.
In other company news, on Oct. 1, L’Oreal kicked off the second round of its online strategy game, the L’Oreal E-Strat Challenge. The business game, which was started last year, involves students who run virtual cosmetics companies. L’Oreal also is constructing a logistics platform due to be finished in 2003 in Essigny-le-Grand et Urvillers, in the north of France. It will stock aerosol cans made by its subsidiary Soprocos and will initially employ 40 people, a L’Oreal spokesman confirmed.

DOUBLE TROUBLE: An ad campaign promoting John Frieda’s Sheer Blonde product line features Gail Federici’s — the president of John Frieda Professional Hair Care — twin daughters, Brittany and Alex Smith. The twins perform and sing “Are You Ready,” a pop song created for the commercial, which is directed by Dave Meyers. Other crew members included Sally Hershberger for hair, Leslie Lopez for makeup, Lori Goldstein as fashion consultant and choreographer Hi Hat.

COSMETICS INDUSTRY SHOWS SUPPORT: What was supposed to be a celebration of the Kiehl’s brand’s 150th anniversary at the Neiman Marcus San Francisco store turned into a fund-raiser for the relief effort. Kiehl’s will donate 10 percent of the profits from the week of Oct. 1 at the store, which could amount to as much as $5,000. The proceeds will go to the World Trade Center 9/11 Fund started by New York Mayor Rudolph Guiliani.
Shiseido also is getting in on the efforts by donating cleansing items to New York City hospitals, fire departments and other relief workers at the site. As well, Shiseido, Beaute Prestige International, Nars and Zirh will match donations made by their employees to The United Way’s September 11 Fund. The contributions will be supplemented by a $10,000 donation from each of the companies.

LOOKBOOK: LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Sephora is gearing up to launch a semiyearly magazine, called Sephora Colorbook, which features makeup trends through articles and pictures. It is given out free of charge, starting this month in France, with purchases of $35 or more. The publication will be published by Sephora and some brands it carries. In the first issue, which focuses on fall/winter colors for 2001, contributors include Chanel, with a question-and-answer piece on its makeup creators Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi Morawetz; and Lancome, with an article on its makeup artist Fred Farrugia.

PAYOT PERSONNEL: Dominique Derwa was named president and chief executive officer of Payot, the French skin care brand that was bought by the Puig Group last year. Derwa was formerly president and ceo of Carita.

BIRTHDAY BONUS: France’s Annick Goutal is celebrating its 20th anniversary in style. The fragrance house is set to launch a limited-edition, numbered Baccarat crystal version of its Eau d’Hadrien fragrance. The bottle design, a clear glass flacon engraved with the Annick Goutal logo and topped with a spire-like cap, is meant to recall the art and architecture of imperial Russia early last century. Three hundred bottles will be sold globally for $562 each starting in November.
Annick Goutal will also launch a limited-edition solid version of Eau d’Hadrien fragrance that comes in a purse-sized compact for $63. Home fragrances will also be introduced in the form of miniature scented cushions. These come in two fragrances — the brand’s Christmas scent, Noel, and Ce Soir ou Jamais. A coffret of three cushions will retail for $25.

HOLIDAY SET: Cargo Cosmetics will introduce its first limited-edition holiday collection. Cargo’s 2001 Holiday Palette, packaged in an oversized Cargo tin, contains a lip gloss duo, two lipsticks and an eye shadow, and will retail for $48. The collection will be available at select Sephora locations and beginning Nov. 1.

HAIR STYLIN’: Gil Ferrer, the boutique salon on the Upper East Side, has introduced five new styling aids. The new products — formulated not to leave hair sticky or stiff — include Glossy Wax, Hairflex Cream, Coolstick Dry Wax, Root Elevator and Super Treat. They range in price from $22 to $28 and are available at the salon and through a toll-free number.

RELAX A LITTLE: The Paul Labrecque Salon & Spa East will be opening its doors this November in time for Thanksgiving. The salon will be located in The Chatham, a luxury high-rise at 181 East 65th Street. The 7,000-square-foot space will be decorated by interior designer Fusayo Yokota and will offer a retail area, six treatment rooms and a second floor with 12 styling stations, a men’s grooming area and an espresso bar. Paul Labrecque Salon & Spa West is located in the Reebok Sports Club at 160 Columbus Avenue.