BRING BACK THAT SEX APPEAL
LINGERIE DESIGNERS HAVE CONJURED UP A NEW IMAGE FOR WOMEN IN THEIR SPRING COLLECTIONS, AND THEY’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT WALLFLOWERS. THESE POSTFEMINIST CONSUMERS ARE COMFORTABLE WITH THEIR SEXINESS AND ARE READY TO FLAUNT THEIR ATTRIBUTES.
Byline: Robert Murphy
Luxurious femininity is the theme for spring-summer 2002 lingerie. From Chantal Thomass and Capucine Puerari to Fifi Chachnil and Eres’s Irene Leroux, designers are declaring that women now yearn for more sexy and sophisticated lingerie than in recent seasons.
“Women are comfortable being considered sexy, almost like being considered like objects,” said Leroux. “After a long struggle for women’s rights, they now feel powerful enough to again be sensual without fear of losing their strength. Women’s rights are a given now. In fact, being sexy has become power.”
Thomass agreed, “The world around us is very sexy. Advertising is sexy, films are sexy. Surrounded by this visual world, no woman wants to be a frump.”
Among the trends designers said would be most pronounced is the return of bustiers and other highly-structured garments.
“I really like the idea of bustiers,” said Thomass. “But it’s a bustier that is more comfortable than in the past. Consumers no longer buy only for comfort — it’s a given. Everything should be comfortable — they buy because it fits a mood.”
Chachnil said, “Women want to have fun with their lingerie. It’s all about play and fantasy. If a woman feels like an object today, it’s because she has deserved it and made a deliberate attempt to attract attention.”
Chachnil cited garter belts as another strong trend. She said, “Women accessorize everything today. Why shouldn’t they accessorize their lingerie?”
Even Leroux, whose ethereal Eres collection is known for its minimalistic approach, said she was introducing garter belts and stockings with patterns matching lingerie.
“I feel a move toward the phantasmagoric — translated in a modern way, of course,” said Leroux.
While historically lingerie was designed to be hidden under clothes, the designers said women are now more comfortable revealing a hint of their innerwear.
“With all the transparent clothes out there, a women has to show a little lingerie,” said Puerari. “In that case, the lingerie has to be pretty and sophisticated.”
Chachnil echoed that sentiment when she said, “I like the idea of a little lingerie showing beneath the clothes.”
Color was also cited as a strong direction, led by such shades as violet, rose and yellow green. Transparent fabrics and lace embroidery will also be important elements.
“After so much minimalism, lingerie is moving into an anything-goes time,” said Thomass.
“There’s a lot of frou-frou and it gives women the opportunity to show off and have fun with their underwear.”