BUYERS PLAY SAFE AT AMERICASMART
Byline: Georgia Lee
ATLANTA — Fantasy trends from rhinestone cowgirls and rock stars to Parisian dancehall girls intrigued a few buyers, but most played it safe at AmericasMart Apparel here.
Relying on tried-and-true resources for good fabrics, proven bodies and special items to inspire equally cautious consumers, buyers shopped for holiday goods, off-price deals and immediate deliveries. The fall-holiday show, which ran June 21-25, is typically a slow-paced market and this was no exception.
With few exceptions, buyers said business had slowed or had been sporadic this year, citing the fluctuating stock market, the slowing economy and weather as causes. Those who had increases said they had worked at trimming costs and controlling inventory levels.
Buyers liked evening separates, such as tuxedo pants, paired with embellished and beaded tops, or evening dresses with touches of glitter or beading. Chiffon overlays and satin linings in contrasting colors brightened up black skirts. Feminine touches included ruffles and floral details.
Retailers touched on glitter and rhinestone belt buckles, as well as Western shirts. While none went overboard with the “Moulin Rouge”-inspired turn-of-the-century fashion, some bought more red eveningwear and lace embellishment. Men’s wear looks worked for Southern buyers only when paired with feminine tops and accessories.
Tina Hart, co-owner of Luna, a Columbia, S.C., specialty store with locations in Columbia, Charleston and Atlanta, shopped with a budget that was down 5 percent from a year ago.
“We’re being careful, since we’ve had lower sales increases this year,” she said. “We’re buying close to season, looking for immediates and off-price goods for the first time.”
She also bought holiday dresses, cocktail pants with lace, and sequined or Lurex tops from BCBG, ABS, Laundry, Parallel and Diane Von Furstenberg. Hart also ordered pants in pinstripes, plaids and tuxedo styles by Where & Wen, and sweater coats in space-dyed, ribbed or fake fur-trimmed looks from Urban Outfitters.
In denim, which continues to be in high demand for younger customers, she chose proven best-selling lines — Seven, Buffalo, Earl and French Connection — in miniskirts and blazers, as well as low-rise jeans.
Hart bought corset or printed georgette blouses from Laundry and BCBG, and bustiers and lacy separates by Only Hearts and Poleci. She mixed ideas and textures, with chunky sweaters paired with delicate skirts, denim with cashmere, or one-shoulder tops and pinstripes with pastel blouses.
“We’re not buying collections as much and we’re dropping nonperforming lines,” said Hart. “Items are extremely important. We’re searching for the best price, especially on trendy merchandise, so we can get in and out quickly.”
Sales have dropped 5 percent the past three months at Copper Penny, a better/bridge-priced store with units in Charleston and one in Mt. Pleasant, S.C. Careful not to overbuy, she shopped with a budget even with last year’s.
“Charleston has been affected, but not drastically, by the economic slowdown,” said owner Penny Vaigneur, who added that competition from a recently opened nearby retail center had hurt sales more than the economy. “Spoleto (the May arts festival that draws worldwide visitors to Charleston) had record-breaking attendance, but didn’t help retail sales.”
Vaigneur shopped for holiday social- occasion dresses from Laundry and Zola Evening, and dressy sportswear items, such as sweaters and scarves. She bought tuxedo pants and jackets with sequined halters from Mary Jane Marcasiano and contrasting satin linings by Trina Turk. She also went techno, choosing stretch and brocade fabrics in red and plum shades to contrast with black.
Many stores, such as Carriage on the Park, a 25-year-old Charlotte boutique, said they were searching for fashion looks that fit misses’ customers. She bought items from Logic, which she described as an updated look with a good misses’ fit.
Lorie McDonald, who purchased the store in April, shopped for trends without going too far out on a limb.
“Our store’s reputation was more traditional, older,” she said. “We’re updating everything and trying to span four generations, instead of just an older customer.”
McDonald bought special-occasion dressing from MAG, Bob Mackie, Gilar, Laundry and Chetta B, in looks from dresses to tuxedo pants with beaded tops. She passed on corsets and bustiers as too forward, but she bought more red holiday eveningwear.
The new direction has brought a 28 percent sales increase this year, although the Charlotte area had seen economic slowdown and rising unemployment, said McDonald.
The difficult economic and weather climates led to a 10 percent sales decrease for the first half at The Classy Dame, a Springfield, Mo., specialty store. Terry Heitman, owner of the 26-year-old shop, shopped with a budget up 8 percent for holiday.
Heitman ordered holiday looks and more structured sportswear from Zion, Margaret M, Co. & Eddy and Logic. He shopped fitted looks, plaids and updated argyle sweaters, as well as a beaded white and navy group from Mary Jane Marcasiano.