SEXPOTS AND PRAIRIE BABES
DONATELLA VERSACE WENT WILDLY COLORFUL FOR VERSUS, WHILE SEXY LOOKS WERE THE ORDER OF THE DAY IN MARIUCCIA MANDELLI’S KRIZIA AND JEAN PAUL KNOTT’S KRIZIA TOP COLLECTIONS. ALBERTA FERRETTI, FOR HER PART, CREATED DECONSTRUCTED PRAIRIE LOOKS FOR PHILOSOPHY.
Versus: On Saturday night, Donatella Versace celebrated her right to mix, match and get downright kooky. Hey, it’s her collection and she’ll clash if she wants to. While it all started simply enough with a handful of quiet scribble prints in black and white, it wasn’t long before the color kicked in — searing color, wild-eyed color, screaming color. Stripes ranging from the cool graphic kind to the tangy, beachy variety ran rampant on boyish blazers and adorable skinny jeans, and came spliced on ruffle-front jackets and sexy baseball T’s with their sleeves hinged on. Oh, but Donatella was just gearing up. Her capering reached a cacaphonous pitch with Day-Glo splash prints, the only kind of noise that could make the yellow patent coat look that followed look tame.
Obviously, wherever that Versus girl is headed, it’s not likely to be a stuffy affair. To suit her wanderings, the skating skirts and spangled stretchy tops Versace proposed for evening fell somewhere between trippy Tinkerbell and a techno Tonya Harding. Adorable or relentless, depending on your take. While her guest’s eyes may never readjust to the colors of a more natural range — and her sound system’s booming bass set their teeth to rattling — that’s just what Donatella’s crowd expects when they turn up for a Versus show: sensory overload.
Krizia and Krizia Top: If sexy means showing a lot of skin, then Mariuccia Mandelli’s spring collection is sexy, all right. From her skimpy knits and microminis to HotPants and hard plastic cone bras, the look was aggressive enough for any tigress on the prowl. Just to drive the point home, Mandelli sent out a series of silk minidresses, each with one big tiger’s face printed right across its front. The best looks — including the cowlbacked suede minidress and another shimmering in bronze sequins — played the sexy angle with a more subtle touch.
For his part, Jean Paul Knott, who designs the Krizia Top collection, took the whole tough ‘n’ sexy concept and ran with it, sending out plenty of sheer chiffons and a smart little T-shirt dress in olive drab.
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: At Philosophy, Alberta Ferretti sent out her prairie babes deconstructed just so, with a romantic crinkle here, an artful bit of wrinkling there, a touch of puckering or gently crushed pleats. Her sweet peasant skirts looked as if they’d been perfectly put through the wringer, while floaty dresses, worn under shrunken cardigans or wrapped and bound with ribbon ties, were done up with delicately ragged hems. At its best, Ferretti’s practiced dishevelment took a crafty turn with a flurry of lacy white laser-cut dresses, skirts and tops. Snowflakes for spring never looked so right.