MEMO PAD

MY WAY: Giorgio Armani is not getting mad, he’s getting even. To rebut Suzy Menkes’s negative review of his show, he plans to run a full-page ad opposite her column in the International Herald Tribune on Tuesday, showing nine images from his runway show.
In her review Wednesday, headlined “Are Italy’s Designer Brands Having an Identity Crisis?”, Menkes criticized Armani for showing a provocative little black dress that looked more like Versace or Gucci. She scolded Armani for joining the crowd and appealing to the basic instincts of lensmen.
“The Hollywood crowd may be hungry for drop-dead sexed-up dresses for Oscars. But in the past, Armani would have dropped dead rather than shown them,” wrote Menkes. “Some outfits worked, others were more doubtful. The absolute indication of Armani taste had gone … He left the audience with this question, if Armani doesn’t always look like Armani, what is now the soul of the brand?”
An Armani spokesman countered: “For Armani, it was a classic Armani show. Other reviews said it was true Armani. We want the readers of the Herald Tribune to get an opportunity to see the collection.”

OLDHAM AND US: Is there life after the runway? Todd Oldham thinks so. He’s got a new gig shooting for US Weekly, and was in Los Angeles this week photographing Kirstin Dunst in Anna Sui.
“I’ve been shooting for a year and a quarter and it’s been great. I’m having a blast,” said Oldham. He plans to shoot Sui’s collection at the Schindler House. “I can’t believe they’re letting us loose in there.” The pictures are slated to run in March.
“I plan on shooting for them [US Weekly] fairly often. I was very impressed with the new team,” said Oldham. US Weekly goes weekly March 17.

KELLY’S GETAWAY: Kelly Klein’s got a new beachfront property — in Santa Barbara. The photographer has just finished shooting an ad campaign for Bacara Resort & Spa, a new luxury getaway perched on 78 acres of beachfront overlooking the Pacific. The campaign features Shalom Harlow and Georgina Grenville styled like updated silver-screen goddesses.

MASTHEAD SHIFTS: Kristin Perrotta has been promoted to beauty director at Allure. She had been associate beauty editor. She takes over some of the duties formerly handled by Marianne Diorio, beauty and style director, who returned to Estee Lauder as vice president of communications for USA and Canada.
On the business side, Helen Tricarico has been named executive beauty director of Allure, a new post. Most recently, she was publisher of Movieline.
Michelle Macguire, associate accessories editor at Allure, is moving to Glamour as senior editor, sittings and beauty. Allison Ward Frank has been named Glamour’s entertainment editor. She had been bookings director. Christine Spines, former senior writer at Premiere, has joined Glamour as a contributing editor. She will cover the entertainment industry from Los Angeles.
Over at Travel & Leisure, senior editor Laura Begley has been promoted to style director. She will oversee the magazine’s coverage of fashion, style and design.

KEEPING TABS: Vanity Fair is publishing its own Oscar Scorecard with its April Hollywood issue. Sponsored by Concord Watches, the 52-page onsert highlights celebrity photographs from six years of VF’s Oscar night parties at Morton’s (and under an adjoining tent) in Hollywood. Kim Basinger is featured on the cover. The onsert has its own scorecard of the 10 top categories and the nominees, so the reader can keep track at home.

KUDOS: Cosmogirl, published by Hearst Magazines, is named “Start-Up of the Year,” in Adweek’s annual spring 2000 Hot List/Magazine issue, which hits newsstands Monday. Launched in June, 1999, the magazine is edited by Atoosa Rubenstein.

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