THE ART OF PASTA
Byline: Julia Fellers-Green
Named after the debaucherous Pulcinella from the Italian Comedia de l’Arte, Pasta da Pulcinella has opened its second Atlanta location in a converted 1920’s house in midtown.
“I think that midtown is a growing area,” said co-owner and chef, Roberto Boratto, of his choice of location. “This was one of the last available properties in the area. We completely remodeled the house.”
The outcome is an elegant, intimate atmosphere featuring an open kitchen inviting diners to revel in the careful food preparation. In the near future, Boratto promises the addition of front patio and back porch dining areas complete with breathtaking skyline views.
The menu predominately offers basic pasta made fresh daily by the restaurant.
“We bought a building and renovated it for manufacturing pastas,” explained Boratto. “Some clients that we sell to are eatZi’s and Palm Restaurant at Swissotel. We are slowly developing that aspect of the business.”
Among the specialties of the house is a grilled veal chop accompanied by arugula salad with cherry tomatoes and lemon vinaigrette. Other favorites include tortelli di mele-ravioli filled with browned Granny Smith apples, sausage and parmesan. “It’s our signature dish,” said Boratto. “We shaped it in the form of apples. This seems to make it more of a palate pleaser.”
The small menu also offers spinach tagliatelle with bolognese sauce and vegetarian dishes such as ravioli filled with eggplant, bell peppers, walnuts, ricotta, parmesan, and mint.
Choosing to stay in the kitchen while partner Mimi Hawariat tends to the dining room, Boratto, a Milan native, learned his culinary skills experientially at some of Atlanta’s most popular Italian restaurants, including La Grotta and California Pizza Kitchen. The trial-by-fire initiation to the business has been a success. “We got the first review in the paper and never looked back,” said Boratto of his blooming restaurant business.
Written up in Gourmet, USA Today and the Zagat Survey 1999, the newest location of Pasta da Pulcinella is at 1123 Peachtree Walk, open for dinner Monday through Thursday, 5:30-10:00, and Friday and Saturday, 5:30-11:00.