DUPONT’S SPRING 2001 MOODS
Byline: Karyn Monget
NEW YORK — The spring-summer 2001 intimate apparel workshop by DuPont opened last week with a colorful and modern mix of lingerie ideas for the contemporary woman.
Entitled “Mood Swings,” the workshop at the DuPont offices here at 1430 Broadway featured trend boards with fabric swatches, as well as a video of directional intimate apparel looks on runways from the Salon International de la Lingerie trade show in Paris and ideas showcased on American runways. The month-long workshop is open to retailers, designers, manufacturers and mills.
Iris LeBron, DuPont’s fashion director of intimate apparel, swimwear and activewear, presented an eclectic assortment of concept pieces and a wide range of brands from England, France and Italy that she purchased at a number of European department stores and specialty boutiques.
The workshop focused on three themes:
“Flirtatious,” which “represents a daring yet playful mood” in a warm range of reds, from a rich Tuscan red to deep claret, and accents of yellow, lavender, misty mauve and purple. Fabric blends include yarn-dyed stretch wovens in Dacron, nylon and Lycra spandex; variegated rib-patterns of Tactel Strata; fine jerseys of cotton and Lycra, and burnout sheers of viscose, nylon and Lycra. Chantilly lace that’s been updated with Lycra is a top idea in soft, allover lace treatments, said LeBron.
Key silhouettes include camis with built-in support, mesh pajama pants, full-slips with decorative ribbons and sheer underwire bras.
LeBron displayed what she considered to be directional daywear and foundations styles from the European market: a bright yellow sheer bra and panty set by Off Limits; a Jackson Pollack-inspired abstract floral printed bra and bikini by Kookai, and a printed floral mesh underwire bra by Morgan. She called a group of seamless black microfiber bras and panties edged in hot pink designed by Joseph Corre for Marks & Spencer “very sexy and young looking.” Corre also is an owner of Agent Provacateur, a lingerie boutique in London and is the son of designer Vivienne Westwood.
“Care Free” epitomizes the “modern, free spirit,” said LeBron, noting that textured lace patterns, knit-in jacquards and clean, allover seamless looks are important. Fabrics include pointelles of CoolMax and Lycra; allover laces of Tactel Multisoft and Lycra; brushed-back satins in Micromattique, and matte jerseys of Tactel Micro and Lycra. The new generations of microfibers — like Tactel Multisoft — focus on a soft, feel-good touch.
Top silhouettes include short slips with mesh panels, scented camis and matching briefs; full-slips with gathered bodice treatments, and little crew neck T-shirts and full pajama pants. Catsuits and bodysuits also are a top idea. The color range includes clear shades of lavender, blue and kiwi green.
LeBron pulled out a couple of micro daywear pieces in apple green that she had purchased at Miss Selfridge’s. The cami and briefs had the fragrance of green apples.
“It’s a very popular item. There’s a little tag that says the scent will last up to 30 washings,” she said, noting that there were a number of other scents including cherry.
LeBron further noted that she saw a lot of “plush-looking his-and-her lounge sets” in Europe. “The men are getting in on the act with items that have shine, like Tactel Diablo Strata, rib velvets and cire finishes.”
“Reserved” is a theme that does not exactly look the way it sounds. It features a lot of textured micro nylons that have the look and feel of cotton, as well as active-inspired styles. As an example, LeBron displayed a black and olive bandeau and bike shorts by Calvin Klein underwear of Tactel and Lycra, which she bought at Harvey Nichols.
“It was hanging in the lingerie department, not activewear. The active market will be the next area where seamless will be big,” said LeBron. To press her point, she displayed another sports-inspired look by Dolce & Gabbana Intimo — a little triangle-shape day bra and bikini of Tactel and Lycra that looked like mesh.
Other fabrics and treatments include stretch gauzes in silk and Lycra; sheer puckers in shiny Antron Lycra; matte and shine knits in nylon and Lycra, and plaited meshes of Tactel Aquator, a two-sided fabric that wicks moisture away from the skin.
In addition to unconstructed bras, key styles include seamless tanks and coordinating briefs, and engineered tanks.
“At Marks & Spencer, I also saw two styles of sports bras with matching sports briefs done in allover CoolMax. That’s the first time I’ve seen that,” said LeBron. She added that a sports bra of CoolMax by Dim Sport — a French brand owned by Sara Lee — was a “hot item” in Europe.