READY FOR BLASTOFF: THE FALL LAUNCHES
IN JUST A FEW WEEKS, FRAGRANCE LAUNCH MANIA WILL GO INTO FULL SWING. DIFFERENTIATING THIS SEASON FROM PREVIOUS ONES IS THE SHEER NUMBER OF SIGNIFICANT INTRODUCTIONS. IN ONE CORNER, THERE ARE BRASH NEWCOMERS, LIKE MICHAEL KORS, PAUL SMITH AND HELMUT LANG, LAUNCHING THEIR VERY FIRST FRAGRANCES. THEN ON THE OTHER SIDE STAND THE SEASONED PROS — LIKE ESTEE LAUDER, LANCOME, CALVIN KLEIN AND RALPH LAUREN — GETTING READY FOR ANOTHER BATTLE OF THE BLOCKBUSTERS. FOR THOSE FOLLOWING AT HOME, HERE’S YOUR SCORECARD.

Giorgio Armani Mania
Launch Date: The European rollout began in March. The U.S. launch will begin in August. Sales Projection: $35 million at retail through yearend.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: Mania is positioned as the equivalent of the Armani signature Black Label collection and is targeted to a slightly older consumer than the Emporio Armani scents. The print ads were developed by Fabien Baron and shot by Patrick Demarchelier.

Azzaro Azzura
Launch Date: Azzura launched last fall in Europe. It will launch in the U.S. in September.
Sales Projection: $30 million at retail in the first year.
Supplier: Charabot.
FYI: The promotional package behind Azzura is reportedly the largest concentration of media support ever put behind a Clarins launch, roughly $6 million to $8 million for the first year.

Boucheron Initial
Launch Date: The rollout will begin in France in September.
Sales Projection: $28 million at retail in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: The pearl-shaped Initial bottle is meant to resemble that of a Boucheron pendant necklace. The packaging was created in-house with the design firm Desgrippes Gobe & Associates.

Bulgari Blu
Launch Date: Late August.
Sales Projection: $15 million at retail in the first year.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: Blu, which is aimed at consumers in the 25-to-39 age bracket, is Bulgari’s first global launch. It is designed to be more accessible than other Bulgari scents, with price points that are 15 percent lower than earlier Bulgari introductions.

Burberry Touch
Launch Date: September.
Sales Projection: First-year ex-factory sales of about $13 million.
Supplier: Quest developed the women’s fragrance and Firmenich created the men’s.
FYI: In development for the past two years, Touch represents a collaboration among Burberry chief executive officer Rose Marie Bravo, Burberry creative director Roberto Menichetti and Fabien Baron, the creative director for the company’s ad campaigns.

Escada Sentiment
Launch Date: Sept. 21.
Sales Projection: $10 million wholesale in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Givaudan Roure.
FYI: When Escada Sentiment hits counters, it will be the first time that the public sees the new Escada typeface, logo and color: red, not gold. The dark red of the Escada name is an expression of Escada’s new slogan: “Colour of Elegance.”

The Givenchy Oblique Trio: Rewind, Fast Forward and Play
Launch Date: The European rollout began in the U.K. in April. The U.S. launch will begin in September.
Sales Projection: $25 million in first-year sales.
Supplier: Fast Forward was developed by Firmenich, while Rewind and Play were done by International Flavors & Fragrances.
FYI: To promote these Generation Y fragrances, Givenchy will launch an international online scavenger hunt at givenchyoblique.com called the Oblique Cup. Prizes, like cell phones and airline tickets, will be given at the end of each round.

Guerlain Mahora
Launch Date: Nov. 1 in Europe.
Sales Projection: $44 million at wholesale in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Guerlain.
FYI: Mahora was inspired by Mayotte, an island in the Indian Ocean where house perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain has a home. The bottle was designed by sculptor Robert Granai, who also designed the Guerlain Samsara bottle.

Gucci Rush for Men
Launch Date: September.
Sales Projection: $25 million at retail in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Givaudan Roure.
FYI: The Rush packaging features a flat, white metal front and back with transparent sides. “The name is very discreetly recessed into the packaging, so that once you slip it out of the sleeve, it becomes a pure white form,” said Gucci’s Tom Ford.

Flower by Kenzo
Launch Date: France on Aug. 25; Europe, Argentina and Africa in September, and Latin America and the Middle East in November. In 2001, Flower will be introduced in Israel, the U.S. and Asia.
Sales Projection: $40 million wholesale in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: Flower By Kenzo, considered an homage to the designer, will be launched exclusively on Air France flights on Aug. 1. When the fragrance hits the U.S., it will be sold exclusively in Sephora.

Truth Calvin Klein
Launch Date: August.
Sales Projection: $20 million wholesale in the U.S. in the second half.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: Truth taps into the current personalization trend. Customers can purchase a set of five body oil essences — bamboo, sapling, citrus, lilac and vanilla — for $30 and use them to customize items in the Truth line.

Michael by Michael Kors
Launch Date: September.
Sales Projection: $10 million at retail in 2000.
Supplier: Mane.
FYI: A limited-edition, signed-and-numbered perfume bottle in a sterling silver and Lucite case will be available during the holidays. It will retail for $1,500, and all profits will go to charity. No gift-with-purchase promotions are planned for the line.

Lancome Miracle
Launch Date: Europe this fall; U.S. in March 2001.
Sales Projection: $100 million wholesale worldwide for the first year. Supplier: Firmenich
FYI: The promotional campaign for Miracle will feature Lancome’s newest spokesmodel, actress Uma Thurman. The first commercial was shot outdoors in a village in Provence and shows Thurman gazing at a sunrise.

Helmut Lang
Launch Date: The men’s and women’s fragrances have already launched in Germany and in Lang’s boutique in New York. In the fall, they will launch in France and the U.K., and distribution will widen in the U.S. and Germany.
Sales Projection: $750,000 to $1 million at retail in the U.S. in 2000.
Supplier: Dragoco.
FYI: There will be at least four different ads for the duo: One shows a waterfall of fragrance, another is a close-up of a bottle and its label, the third is an overhead shot of many Lang bottles and the fourth is a Jenny Holzer poem.

Estee Lauder Intuition
Launch Date: Europe in September.
Sales Projection: $100 million in retail sales for the first 12 months, not including the U.S. and Canada.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: This is the first Lauder fragrance developed specifically for the European market. The fragrance will be heavily promoted with TV and outdoor advertising, copious sampling and 30 million scented strips appearing in close to 100 publications.

Ralph by Ralph Lauren
Launch Date: Sept. 17 in the U.S. and Canada. The international rollout begins with the U.K. launch in spring 2001.
Sales Projection: $35 million at retail in 2000.
Supplier: Mane.
FYI: This is the first scent from Ralph Lauren Fragrances to target Generation Y. The company hopes to capture those ages 15 to 25 with fun packaging and playful products, like It Rocks, bath crystals that pop and fizz in the water.

Lucky You
Launch Date: Late August.
Sales Projection: $40 million in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Firmenich developed the women’s fragrance and International Flavors & Fragrances did the men’s.
FYI: The TV spot — directed by Rob Cohen and produced by Joe Petruccio of Avrett Free Ginsberg — takes place in a diner and morphs into a fantasy dance sequence, ending with the couple leaving the restaurant together. Her final words: “Get lucky.”

Nautica Latitude Longitude
Launch Date: August.
Sales Projection: $40 million in first-year retail sales in the U.S.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: The promotional war chest has been estimated by sources at $10 million for national print and local co-op advertising between September and December. About 40 million scented strips will be used, and co-op TV and radio will be employed at Christmas.

Prescriptives Potion
Launch Date: November.
Sales Projection: $8 million at retail in the first year.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: Potion, described as an “illuminating floral,” was inspired by the Prescriptive’s Magic makeup collection that was launched last November. Like the ads for the makeup, the Potion campaign was shot by Joyce Tenneson.

Isabella Rossellini Manifesto
Launch Date: Europe in September; the U.S. and Japan in spring 2001. Sales Projection: $35 million wholesale in the first 12 months.
Supplier: Firmenich.
FYI: Manifesto was introduced to the press with an event in Stockholm. There was dining in the royal Rosendal Garden and the Stockholm Stadshus, or mayor’s office, not to mention a ferry ride through the archipelago off the city’s coast.

Jil Sander Sensations
Launch Date: Europe and Middle East in mid-October; the U.S. in March.
Sales Projection: $50 million at retail in the first 12 months.
Supplier: International Flavors & Fragrances.
FYI: Even though Jil Sander left her company earlier this year after a dispute with Prada — which owns a majority stake in her fashion house — the designer was involved in every aspect of the the project, from the scent to selecting the photographer for the ad campaign.

Shiseido Zen
Launch Date: October.
Sales Projection: $5 million at retail in the U.S. and $20 million globally.
Supplier: International Flavors & Fragrances.
FYI: Zen is the first fragrance that contains IFF’s space rose note, which was developed last year when IFF sent a miniature rose plant into orbit on the Space Shuttle Discovery mission with John Glenn.

Paul Smith
Launch Date: September.
Sales Projection: $25 million at retail in 2000 for men’s and women’s combined.
Supplier: International Flavors & Fragrances.
FYI: The bottles were designed by architect Sophie Hicks, who also did Smith’s flagship store in London and who is designing his new store, opening in January 2001 in Milan. Smith and English nose Arthur Burnham collaborated on the scents.

Anna Sui’s Sui Dreams
Launch Date: September.
Sales Projection: $5 million wholesale in the first year.
Supplier: Robertet.
FYI: Those who register on Anna Sui’s new Web site, annasui.com, will receive a sample of the fragrance before it goes on sale. One hundred thousand deluxe miniature samples have been produced, as well as copious amounts of vial-on-cards.

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