KOHLMAN TO HILFIGER: Lynn Kohlman, vice president, corporate creative director at Donna Karan International, has been named executive vice president, global creative director of women’s at Tommy Hilfiger USA Inc. In this new post, Kohlman will be instrumental in implementing corporate consistency and cohesiveness across all women’s categories from inception at design to completion at retail. She joins Hilfiger on Sept. 5.
“As my women’s collection and product categories grow, the need for consistency and clarity of message is key,” said Tommy Hilfiger, honorary vice chairman of the firm.
Kohlman had been with Karan for 11 years.
In a related move, Stephen Cirona, vice president, creative services since 1998, has been promoted to executive vice president, global creative director of men’s, also a new post. Both Kohlman and Cirona report to Hilfiger.
WHO’S THE BOSS? “It’s not just a magazine. It’s like Coca-Cola or Nike. It’s a huge brand,” Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue, tells the BBC, in a documentary that airs Monday in London.
The BBC followed Wintour to the summer 1999 Paris couture shows, the Costume Institute gala at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, the VH1 Vogue Fashion Awards and the Vogue offices. Her daily routine: up at 5:45 a.m., tennis four times a week (weather permitting), hair and makeup person at 7 a.m., chauffeur at 7:30 a.m. and at her desk by 8.
“She’s an intimidating person; she’s so incredible and way ahead of the whole fashion game,” fashion features writer Plum Sykes says on camera. Sykes adds that she’s gotten used to — and likes — Wintour’s direct and quick meetings.
Wintour is shown reviewing outfits with Vogue editors for a fashion shoot. “I try to be very clear about what I expect,” she tells the BBC. Several designers offer opinions of Wintour, such as Michael Kors, who says, “She defines what modern fashion is today,” or John Galliano, who claims to owe his career to her. “The reason I’m here at the House of Dior is because of Anna,” the designer says.
The Wintour profile is part of a three-part series called “Boss Women.” The two other women profiled are Perween Wersi, an Asian businesswoman in Britain, and Pauline Clare, the first female police chief constable in Britain.
There are no plans to air the show in the U.S.
NEW A&F FAN: These days, you never know where Rudy Giuliani will pop up. The mayor himself is featured in a Q&A in the back-to-school edition of the Abercrombie & Fitch quarterly. Donning an A&F baseball cap, Giuliani addresses several topics, including how it wasn’t just him, but his City Hall team, who helped to make the city safer.
When asked what he’d do if he weren’t mayor, Giuliani said, “I’ve always wanted to manage the Yankees or perform at the Metropolitan Opera, but since I’m trained as a lawyer, I guess I’d do that.” And if the Giuliani interview isn’t enough, there’s also one with former mayor Ed Koch.
“We almost had Hillary, but there was a scheduling problem,” said Sam Shahid, owner of Shahid & Co., the ad agency that created the catalog, which is an homage to New York. The $6 edition went on sale this week at A&F stores and was sent to subscribers. It tells the story of two guys and a girl from Princeton University who arrive in Manhattan and see all the sights — but she leaves with a different guy.
Overall, the catalog is fairly tame by A&F’s standards, except for a rear-end shot of a hunky guy with dollar bills coming out of his thong, and a photo of a guy with his shorts pulled down, frolicking in the lake in Central Park.
The catalog features Bruce Weber photos of such landmarks as Grand Central Terminal, the Brooklyn Bridge, “21” Club, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the New York Public Library, the Hudson River, Saks Fifth Avenue and Lenox Lounge in Harlem. John Scott shot Giuliani and Koch, among others. The catalog also includes a fall film guide, a 24-hour jaunt through the Big Apple and a guide to nighttime hot spots.
A&F ruffled some Tiger hairs by photographing a building at Princeton University without permission. “We definitely didn’t approve it,” said Marilyn Marks, a Princeton spokeswoman. “We have a policy that Nassau Hall isn’t used in promotional photography. Our attorney has been in contact with their attorney and we expect there will be a settlement.”
An Abercrombie spokeswoman in Columbus, Ohio, said the company had no comment on its use of the image or a settlement.
RUSSELL GETS TOP POST: Margaret Russell, former design and decoration editor of Elle Decor, was named editor in chief of the magazine. She succeeds Marian McEvoy, who, as reported, became editor in chief of House Beautiful.
PERRY TRIES COLOR: Perry Ellis is playing the color wheel for fall. After four years working with Bruce Weber in trademark black-and-white, creative director Sam Shahid, owner of Shahid & Co., and Pablo de Echevarria, senior vice president of Perry Ellis International, decided to hire Mario Sorrenti to shoot the campaign in color.
The result is sexy shots of models Karen Elson and Tyson Balou — some with Elson in a bra and panties and a fully clothed Balou leaning over her, and others with him fully dressed and her naked leg stepping over him.
The ads mark the relaunch of Perry Ellis women’s wear this fall and promote the men’s sportswear line as well. According to sources, Perry Ellis will spend in excess of $10 million on the campaign, and ads will appear in Vanity Fair, Fashions of the Times, The New York Times, GQ, Esquire, Fortune, Maxim, Men’s Journal, and Men’s Health, as well as outdoor. Kellwood has the license to produce Perry Ellis women’s .
KLUGE REJOINS GLAMOUR: Samantha Kluge is rejoining Glamour as style editor. Most recently, she was working with Australian makeup artist Sue Devitt, helping Devitt to launch her cosmetics line in the U.S. Earlier, she served as West Coast editor for beauty and fitness for Glamour.
According to Bonnie Fuller, editor in chief of Glamour, Kluge “will report on trends and contribute style ideas from interiors and fashion to lifestyle to celebrities.” While Kluge’s first stories will appear in September, her own New York pied-a-terre is featured in the October issue.
In other Glamour news, the magazine is about to publish its first 13th issue in mid-August, called “Dos and Don’ts,” which spans the fashion, beauty and celebrity categories. It’s 100 pages.
JUNE SPIKE: June was a hot month for both fashion and beauty. According to the Publishers Information Bureau, apparel and accessories ad revenues increased 21.1 percent to $90.1 million. For the first six months of the year, the category’s ad revenues gained 11.5 percent to $552.2 million.
Toiletries and cosmetics ad revenues showed a 12.9 percent gain to $111.6 million for June, while for the first six months they increased 10.8 percent to $593.4 million, according to PIB.