MODA IN FORECASTS A SENSUAL FALL
Byline: Daniela Gilbert
NEW YORK — Moda In’s fall-winter 2001-2002 trend forecast entered the realm of the senses.
A prelude to the show at the Milan Fair, to be held September 11 to 13, the forecast — presented by fashion, fabric and color consultant Angelo Uslenghi — highlighted three fabric and color themes for the 2001-2002 transition period: Seeing, Touching and Tasting.
In the Seeing trend, “vibrant sceneries attract the eye,” said Uslenghi. Effects include multi-melange, mouline, printed yarns and multiblends for cross-dyeing.
Ribbons, tapes and textured clusters are also important: “Multilayer works with clearly visible stitching, splices, overstitching and quilting,” he added.
Also under the umbrella of Seeing are two-tone iridescent panne velvets, poplins, taffetas and satins, as well as printed, embroidered and embossed looks with plaids and stripes.
“Capturing the light is an integral part of the Seeing trend,” offered Uslenghi. “Tweeds with luminous knots, mohair with embedded crystals or jersey with sequins are examples of looks that do this.”
Colors for the Seeing trend include vibrant, nocturnal and deep hues enhanced with neon shades.
For the Touching trend, Uslenghi focused on “organic metamorphoses asking to be touched.” Fur and skin are key here, as are sculptured looks.
“Silky, flat, short-piled fabrics such as mixed camel hair, alpaca and yak play an important role,” he said. “False doeskin, as well as nubuck and shearling, come into play and feature aged, napped finishes.”
Anything sculptured and moldable is integral to the season, according to Uslenghi: “Matelasse effects, laser engraving, punching and lace, as well as burnt-out techniques on figured velvet and satin with textured labyrinth.”
Touching’s palette includes a gamut of delicate, neutral hues that feature a touch of frost. For the Tasting trend, Uslenghi keyed in on refined looks with a twist. Ethnic influences include yarn blends such as wool/hemp, silk/cotton and cashmere/bourette/raffia. “Basket and sack weaves as well as kilim looks are also important,” he said.
Also under the Tasting trend are classic looks such as stretch gabardine, crease-resistant taffeta and featherweight two-tone doubleface silk/cashmere, wool/cotton and mohair/nylon blends.
“Reptile and spotted patterns applied on such fabrics as georgette, poplin, skins and furs are still going strong,” said Uslenghi.
Tasting’s color range, meanwhile, showed a predominance of beige, camel and other “suede shades,” as Uslenghi called them.