AVEDA PUMPS UP HAIR CATEGORY

Byline: Julie Naughton

NEW YORK — Nothing like returning to one’s roots when planning new products.
It’s doubtful that founder Horst Rechelbacher would appreciate the cliche, but Aveda is definitely examining its core hair care business — and searching for ways to boost it — as it unleashes its new launches for the rest of 2000.
One of the most notable of the upcoming items is a new demi-permanent hair color line. It is Aveda’s first foray into the demi-permanent color segment. (Demi-permanent refers to hair color that is nearly ammonia and peroxide free and capable of lightening the hair up to two levels.)
Aveda’s collection — called Full Spectrum Deposit Only Color Treatment — includes 21 mixable formulations, each with a base of sunflower, jojoba and castor oils.
The formula, available only in Aveda salons, rolls out in September. Aveda currently has about 2,000 Concept salons and 135 Aveda Environmental Lifestyle Stores.
Daria Myers, senior vice president of marketing for Aveda, maintains that it’s the first salon hair color that will actually improve the condition of a client’s hair.
“Not only does it deposit gorgeous color that lasts up to eight weeks, it imparts incredible shine,” she said. “The formula can offer these benefits, because they include the oils as well as an anti-oxidant formula that includes sunflower extract.”
The grouping widens Aveda’s Full Spectrum hair color collection, which was launched in 1998.
Aveda first ventured into the hair color arena in 1997 with its Aveda Enlightenment Blonding formulas. In August 1998, the company began shipping the first Full Spectrum Haircolor products, all permanent cream haircolors, to its salons. Their claim to fame? That they were 97 percent free of synthetic petrochemicals, replacing traditional nitro dyes — which sit on the surface of the hair and provide initial brightness but fade quickly — with oxidative dyes — those that develop within the cortex — mixed with essential oils. That first collection included 18 shades, ranging from blond to black and from ash to bright red.
But, hair color isn’t all that Aveda has planned for September. The company also will expand its hair accessories category with Natural History Hair Accessories, a grouping of 15 all-new designs by Colette Malouf. They include a coconut-shell headband, silk shantung cord ponytail wraps in four colors and a square wood-bead ponytail holder, which range in price from $8 to $20.
Aveda entered the accessories category this past March with a 21-stockkeeping-unit collection. “It’s been so successful that I’m sorry we didn’t do it sooner,” said Myers, who noted that the accessories are updated in the fall and spring.
The new Natural History Makeup Palettes will also be rolled out in September. Three palettes — Go Byzantine, Go Mystic and Go Glacial — will be released, each with two eye shadows, a satin lipcolor, a sheer lipcolor and a new product called Color Plus Define.
Color Plus Define, a shimmery brush-on powder, provides a subtle glow, explained Myers. “For instance, Windburn — from the Go Glacial collection — gives you that slightly windburned look you get after skiing, without spending hours on the slopes,” she said.
The lipsticks each retail for $14, the eye shadows for $10 and Color Plus Define sells for $15.
In October, Aveda will roll out Custom Control, a $16.50 emulsion styling formulation. It is a sister product to its existing Self Control styling stick. A new Hydrotherm Massage service also will be introduced in Aveda Concept Salons that month that will involve the client being massaged on a waterbed-type device.
In November, the company will roll out its most extensive gift set range to date. Seventeen premade sets — ranging in price from $11.50 to $60 — will be available, each focusing on a particular ritual. “The Ritual tie-in is especially relevant given Horst Rechelbacher’s new book, ‘Aveda Rituals,’ ” said Myers. Each premade set comes with a booklet explaining the ritual’s significance and how to indulge in it.
The gift set range includes The Ritual of the Kiss, a $25 collection of two red lipsticks, a Breath Elixir and a silk lipstick caddy; and The Ritual of Balance, a $50 set that includes Equipoise Chakra III Pure-Fume Spirit, Body Moisturizer and Body Cleanser.
For those who want to put together their own sets, customized groupings are also available.
Continuing the theme of expanding successful franchises, Aveda will add a second Blue Oil product — Blue Gel Balancing Massage Blend — to the lineup in December.
The items will be supported with in-store signage, look books and consumer and trade magazine advertising.
While the Estee Lauder Cos. — Aveda’s parent company — doesn’t break out individual company revenues, industry sources estimated that Aveda’s new products could add as much as $25 million in retail to Aveda’s bottom line in their first year. Industry sources estimate that advertising spending will top $1 million.

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