Exte’s well-cut suits and featherweight chiffon gowns showed why the company brought in a talent like Antonio Berardi. But other looks, which were cluttered with mirrors or tangled with cobwebs and leather strips, left one wondering, “Why?”
Laura Biagiotti’s collection glittered with Lurex, Lurex everywhere, which explains why she rushed in Italy’s Olympic gold medallists — just off the plane from Sydney — to come on down the runway and take a bow.
Iceberg, where the design team is supervised by owner Giuliana Gerani, sent out eye-popping references to Pop Art, and, on a subtler note, edged dainty black dresses in sequins.
Valentino Roma, which was launched in June, isn’t a secondary line. According to the company’s execs, it’s just a bit younger than the signature Valentino collection. Bestsellers for spring include striped chiffon dresses and others boasting a chain pattern pulled straight from the Valentino archives. Come February, these will also be found in the company’s new boutiques in Milan and Los Angeles.
Luciano Barbera, where Carola Barbera serves as product manager, puts the fabrics produced in the company’s mill to good use in jackets, skinny pants and tank tops. After all, their wool gauze is anti-wrinkling, thermo-insulating and good-looking, too. Anteprima’s Charleston-worthy beaded dresses were inspired by the jumping Jazz Age. Of course, at Anteprima, these were given a dark, modern twist all its own. And the collection looked better than ever.

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