Berlin’s dark duo Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul delivered a pan-ethnic influenced procession for their off-site presentation, which they named Somewhen. Dramatically swelling music created by cellist-vocalist Hui-Chun Lin sounded both Asian and Slavic, matching the folkloric mood. “It’s a bit tribal and geometric,” said Teboul, pointing out the straight lines in cropped leather jackets. Leather also starred in slim-cut pants with braided inserts and ladylike dresses topped by strong shoulders. Headwear was strong with hats, caps and snoods bedecked with jet beads.
All-black looks were encrusted with beads and combined crochet with polka dot sheers and delicate lace, demonstrating the edgy hand-crafted look the designers have made their own. A cardigan looked simple from the front but its back revealed a gossamer honeycombed detail framed by ornate toothed trim.
While admitting this season’s more wearable looks were a strategy survival, Augustin insisted, “I don’t feel like we’ve been making a compromise.”